• Skip to main content

HAWTHORNE & HEANEY

Embroidery Specialists

  • ABOUT
  • OUR SERVICES
    • HAND EMBROIDERY
    • DIGITAL EMBROIDERY
    • MONOGRAMS & LOGOS
    • POP-UP EVENTS
    • CLASSES
  • CLASSES
    • LONDON EMBROIDERY SCHOOL
  • BLOG
  • SHOP
    • MASONS MILITARY BADGE & BUTTON SHOP
    • LONDON EMBROIDERY SCHOOL
  • JOBS
  • CONTACT

Tailoring

Hawthorne & Heaney on Savile Row: Our New Showroom

October 19, 2020 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Hawthorne & Heaney on Savile Row: Our New Showroom London Hand Embroidery

From 19/10/2020 the Hawthorne & Heaney team will be residents in The Service, a new lifestyle destination comprising a coffee shop, exhibition, retail and showroom space, now open at 32 Savile Row.

Hawthorne & Heaney are an embroidery firm who have a rich history of working on bespoke projects with Savile Row tailors alongside contracts for the Royal Household, Military, Film, Art, Theatre, PR and many other high profile private clients.

Although modern times and rising rents have seen the character of its future threatened, local landlords The Pollen Estate are seeing the value in ‘The Row’ as a character destination and are supporting innovative new and heritage brands to secure a position in this venerable location. The Hawthorne & Heaney front of house team will be offering bespoke embroidery services, on site, 10-4pm Monday – Friday by appointment and will be continuing large scale and confidential works in their new additional South London location.

“We are looking forward to contributing to the long standing tradition of hand made craft on The Row and we are excited about being in the midst of some of our most important clients again. This is a wonderful opportunity to reconnect with our roots and contribute to the community that was the biggest supporter in our early years.” says Claire Blok, the company founder. “The opportunity could not be missed, with a need for more space in these challenging times we are over the moon with the support we have received from the team behind The Service, Dugdale Bros. and the Pollen Estate in making our new showroom possible.”

There is also the exciting addition of a same day monogram service for the run up to Christmas, making ‘bespoke on The Row’ more accessible than ever.

Hawthorne & Heaney on Savile Row: Our New Showroom London Hand Embroidery

Filed Under: Embroidery, Embroidery, London, Tailoring Tagged With: bespoke, custom, embroidery, hand embroidery, machine embroidery, new home, savile row, show room, stitching on the row, Tailoring, the service

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging

October 18, 2019 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Frogging is an interesting word for an embroidery technique isn’t it. It is believed that it referes to the shape of the knot used in ‘frog fasteners’ with the center being the body and the sides being the wide back legs of the frog. The term over the years has come to refer to the embroidery done with this same type of appliqued chord onto garments though not resctricted to the original 3 part knot or for fastening purposes.

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand Embroidery

At Hawthorne & Heaney, we can produce traditional, hand embroidered frogging, where braid is manipulated and sewn down to create these elaborate patterns that you may recognise from historical garments and costume.

 

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryPeacoat with hand embroidered frogging detail by Gieves and Hawkes for Permanent style

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryElaborate hand embroidered frogging sleeves before garment construction

We also can produce similar effects using digital embroidery:

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryClose up machine embroidery frogging on sleeves

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryVelvet smoking jacket with machine embroidery frogging sleeves for Arjan Blok

 

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryPlaying cards inspired machine embroidery onto velvet sleeves before construction for Anderson and Sheppard

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryPlaying cards inspired machine embroidery onto velvet fronts before construction for Anderson and Sheppard

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryPlaying cards inspired machine embroidery onto velvet  for Anderson and Sheppard

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryAnderson and Sheppard smoking jacket for the Beaumont Collection (LCW) . As photographed by Guy Hills

It is particulally fun when people want to push the traditional boundries with their order like these frogging inspired sleeves before construction:

Hawthorne & Heaney on Frogging London Hand EmbroideryDogtooth sleeves with machine embroidered details for Kathryn Sargent

Filed Under: Embroidery, Fashion, London, Tailoring Tagged With: anderson and shepherd, bespoke, chord, cord, digitial embroidery, embroidery, frogging, guy hills, hand embroidery, jackets, kathry sargent, knot, machine embroidery, permanent style, savile row, stitching, Tailoring

Hawthorne & Heaney on Roses

March 22, 2019 by Natasha Searls-Punter

By compairson to last week’s post and the scale of the embroideries that we produced for the patches, this little job may seem insignificant. However we can’t help but get excited about pieces like this whether we are producing 2 pieces or 200 of them in the end.Hawthorne & Heaney on Roses London Hand Embroidery

We were approached and asked to use this tudor rose image to create a pair of freestanding embroidered embelums to go onto a bespoke cape which one of our tailors was working on. By adding raisings into the piece we were able to give the piece some body despite the fact that they are not onto a fabric base.

Hawthorne & Heaney on Roses London Hand Embroidery

You can see from the scale of the hand just how little they really are.

Hawthorne & Heaney on Roses London Hand Embroidery

Here they are in situ where they will get to live against this gorgeous velvet collar. Aren’t they just so cute?!? 

Hawthorne & Heaney on Roses London Hand Embroidery

Filed Under: Art, Embroidery, London, Tailoring Tagged With: Badge, cape, collar, embroidery, flower, freestanding, patches, raisings, red, rose, roses, Tailoring, tudor rose, velvet

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week

May 21, 2018 by Eleanor Rowlands

What were you doing last week? Specifically 9-13 May. Did you manage to catch London Craft Week? Well, it’s alright if you missed it, because we are here to share with you what we did and learned!

This festival that spans across London celebrates British and international creativity. Covering a vast range of disciplines, it brought together over 200 established and emerging makers, designers, brands and galleries from around the world.

We started our journey in the heart of English bespoke tailoring- Savile Row. The Row that is entrenched deep in history, famous worldwide, houses over 100 craftsman in more than a dozen bespoke tailoring business. It is a community that not only produces the esteemed English luxurious product but is active in training new craftsman. We had the chance to attend an hour-long masterclass pattern cutting at Henry Poole & Co.  In the brief hour, taught by one of the cutters about dinner jackets, he engaged us on the construction of the trouser pattern. First, measurement was taken off a gentleman in the room, then he moved onto crafting the pattern. Primarily using the Centre Front Centre Back cutting system, where scales and mathematics are used to give proportions so as to draft for the body of the customer.

 

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Dinner Suit Trouser Pattern Cutting Process | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

 

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Henry Poole & Co Ltd Suits | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

After the hour, we gained a heightened respect for the craft of tailoring. Behind one jacket, it involves roughly 10 artisans, who engage in the making of the various sections of the garment. They perfect the moulding and shaping of the fabric so that it sits perfectly on the body. Bespoke tailoring suits are certainly a class of their own in both elegance and comfort.

Next, we ventured down to Sloane Square, to discover Maria Svarbova’s photography series that was the inspiration behind Delpozo Spring Summer 2018 ‘Musicalia’ collection. We were blown away by the beautiful photographs, that has this retro-futuristic. The artist describes the series as having a sense of ‘artificial detachment’, although set in a retro environment, ‘the pictures somehow evoke a futuristic feeling as well, as if they were taken somewhere completely alien.’, the moment is frozen in time. In addition, the symmetrical composition enhances the ethereal quality.

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Image: Maria Svarbova

Looking at the collection alongside the photographs, there is much resemblance in the colour palette. Creative director, Josep Font skillfully translated the swimming pool blue that ripples throughout the photographs, into the choice of the fabric and embroidery. Complimenting them with pastel shades of yellow, pink, and definitely the shocking red, there is a sense of a dreamlike atmosphere.

 

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Delpozo embroidery contrasted with Maria Svarbova’s photographs

 

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

 

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Delpozo embroidery contrasted with Maria Svarbova’s photographs

 

In addition, the geometric lines and stillness of the pool, reminds us of the intimate atmosphere at the atelier; cool, architectural and beautiful, a style synonym with the brand.

Lastly, we headed to the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize at the Design Museum, that will be held till 17 June. This exhibition best summarises craft and artistic endeavours all over the world. Exhibiting a range of international works that stretch across practices, such as ceramics, papercraft, woodwork to jewellery. Entering the exhibition, visitors are provided with an audio guide, that gives a detailed explanations about the works, aiding further appreciation and understanding of the craft in view.

One theme that ran throughout all the works exhibited is that there are continued efforts made to revive traditional techniques alongside pushing the boundaries of the skill. An example is a winning piece by Jennifer Lee, who mixed metallic oxides into clay to create colour, a technique that she discovered. Complimenting this avant-garde colouring technique, with an ancient practice of pinching and coiling clay, it resulted in the creation of a beautiful speckled surface. The varying gradient of bands that encircle the piece, resembles time frozen between traditional and contemporary.

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Jennifer Lee (Winning Prize) Pale, Shadowed Speckled Traces, Fading Elipse, Bronze Specks, Tilted Shelf, 2017 | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

Another work, that we truly appreciate is by Takuro Kuwata’s Tea Bowl. Unlike traditional potters, who often aims to hide any cracks in their work, Kuwata defies that norm. He enhances the impression of chaos, that is natural to the unpredictable nature of ceramics, by making it the feature point of his work. By combining porcelain with platinum and steel, he challenges the possibility of materials. The melted and crack surface of the work is complemented with the saturated green patina, that makes the work contemporary and elegant.

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Takuro Kuwata, Tea Bowl, 2017 | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

 

Embroidery is also celebrated at this exhibition! Richard McVetis, who is captivated by the meditative nature of the process, draws with needle and thread. He embroidered sixty cubes over the duration of sixty hours, materialising time into something tactile and visual.

 

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Richard McVetis , Variations of a Stitched Cube,2017 | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

 

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Richard McVetis , Variations of a Stitched Cube,2017 | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

 

Perched on 60 beams, the 60 cubes remind me of the globe of islands, but in a square. It is a rather fun way of curating the world and plays on the idea that the world is not round but square.

London Craft Week is truly a celebration of hands that spans multiple disciplines. It makes us cherish and esteem the time and energy that goes into crafting beautiful objects. Unlike mass produced items that are often regarded as disposable, the work of the hand interweaves personal stories and beauty into everything made. In this age of mass consumption and disposal, we are glad that there is a renaissance in the appreciation of creativity and craft worldwide. We at Hawthorne & Heaney, are definitely standing behind that resurgence and hope to safeguard the shared heritage of craft.

Filed Under: Art, Embroidery, Embroidery, Fashion, Interior Design, London, London Embroidery, Tailoring Tagged With: art, bespoke, bespoke embroidery, craft, craft week, design, embellishment, embroidery, exhibition, Hawthorne & Heaney, history, London, London Craft Week, London Embroidery, Tailoring

Hawthorne & Heaney to the Rescue!

March 28, 2018 by Eleanor Rowlands

There is nothing worse when a beloved item of clothing becomes damaged! whether it be a tear or a pesky moth has taken a bite.

While this may feel like the end of an item. Fear not, with a bit of embroidery we can bring your garment back to life!

With some tricks up our sleeves and a creative eye. We brought new life to this cashmere coat with some Goldwork bees!

Hawthorne & Heaney to the Rescue! London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney to the Rescue! London Hand Embroidery

Even though there were only a few holes we added more bees to make them a feature of the coat. 

Hawthorne & Heaney to the Rescue! London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney to the Rescue! London Hand Embroidery

We have also come to the aid of split seams! this beautiful tartan jacket came to us. One of our very talented embroiderer, designed this stunning humming bird with blues and yellows.

Hawthorne & Heaney to the Rescue! London Hand Embroidery

One Bird just want enough!

Hawthorne & Heaney to the Rescue! London Hand Embroidery

Let us know your thoughts! 

Filed Under: Embroidery, Embroidery, Fashion, London, London Embroidery, Tailoring Tagged With: art, bee, bespoke, bespoke embroidery, blue, bullion, cad, coat, construction, custom, embellishment, embroidery, fashion, Fashion Embroidery, garmen, gold, goldwork, hand embroidery, Hawthorne & Heaney, individual, jacket, London, machine embroidery, metal, moth hole, Personalised, print, Tailoring, yellow

Hawthorne & Heaney needs you !

March 2, 2018 by Claire Sarah Barrett

OPEN CALL and VIP ACCESS

As artisans we are drawn to beautiful things.  

The art we work on is a reflection of our taste and dedication.

 

Hawthorne & Heaney needs you ! London Hand Embroidery

 

We asked ourselves why shouldn’t the the luxury we surround ourselves with daily be reflected in the tools of our trade.

As embroiderers, frustrated with hunting through the ever dwlinding treasure trove of vintage and second hand, we decided to create some tools that would be a pleasure to use, collect and admire.

After all the journey is as important as the destination !

 

Hawthorne & Heaney needs you ! London Hand Embroidery

 

The Heaney’s Haberdashery team want you to tell us about the tools you use.  Let us know your favourites and the reasons behind why.  

We are developing some long lost gems and we need your feedback on what tools you would like to see and why.

Sign up to the Newsletter to find out how you can get involved, VIP access to limited edition runs, Early Bird discount codes and updates on our progress.

Follow us on Instagram for a sneak peak on how things are going daily !

Filed Under: Embroidery, Embroidery, Fashion, London, Tailoring Tagged With: Artisan, bespoke, bullion, craft, craftmanship, craftspeople, embroidery, gifts, hand embroidery, heaney's haberdashey, London, scissors, Tailoring, tape measure, textiles, tools, vintage

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion

October 13, 2017 by Natasha Searls-Punter

When a major fashion exhibtion comes to London, we love to go and see what it is all about and the Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion Exhibition currently on at the Victoria and Albert Museum does not disappoint. Based in the fashion and textiles section of the museum, the exhibition goes through from the beginnings of Balenciaga as a brand, through to current designers that Balenciaga has influenced.

Starting downstairs, most of the historical garments and accessories are displayed with accompanying notes and toiles. There are a few pieces which have a video animation next to them of how the pattern goes together to make the garment function which are very informative and really demonstrate the complexity of the designs:

View this post on Instagram

#balenciaga @vamuseum #patterncutting

A post shared by Tasha Searls-Punter (@tashasearlspunter) on Oct 13, 2017 at 1:28am PDT

This accompanies the actual garment which it explains as well as a calico toile of the garment. A few pieces from the collection have been x-rayed as can be seen in the back of the next video which shows the many layers that go into a piece like this and the hidden support within some of the ‘simpler’ looking gowns.

View this post on Instagram

@vamuseum #balenciaga #fashion #london

A post shared by Tasha Searls-Punter (@tashasearlspunter) on Oct 13, 2017 at 1:32am PDT

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion London Hand EmbroideryX-ray photograph of silk taffeta evening dress by Cristóbal Balenciaga, 1955, Paris, France. X-ray by Nick Veasey, 2016. © Nick Veasey

They have a section which is dedicated to the fabric choices and embroideries used in some of the historical Balenciaga pieces. These include a wonderfully rich example of silk shading on a gown with an impossibly tiny waist and a very decadent textured jacket. The base embroidery of the jacket is demonstrated by an embroiderer from Paris based embroiderers Lesage recreating the design. See below for a snippet of the tambour beading over long silk stitching.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion London Hand EmbroideryHawthorne & Heaney Visits Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion London Hand EmbroideryWild silk evening dress (detail), Cristóbal Balenciaga with embroidery by Lesage, 1960 – 2, Paris, France. Museum no. T.27-1974. © Victoria and Albert Museum, LondonHawthorne & Heaney Visits Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion London Hand Embroidery

View this post on Instagram

A little tambour beading demo from one of the videos at the #balenciaga exhibition on now at @vamuseum #embellishment #handembroidery #london

A post shared by London Embroidery School (@londonembschool) on Oct 13, 2017 at 1:35am PDT

Going through the exhibition, the different approaches to each of the pieces are explained as Cristobal Balenciaga applied both tailoring and dressmaking techniques to his pieces. He was know for his surgical precision, often pictured in a lab coat measuring and remeasuring sections. A selection of traditional tailoring tools are displyed including shears, pressing ham, chalk shaving box and tracing wheel.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion London Hand EmbroideryCristóbal Balenciaga at work, 1968, Paris, France. Photograph by Henri Cartier-Bresson. © Henri Cartier-Bresson/Magnum PhotosHawthorne & Heaney Visits Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion London Hand EmbroideryMoving upstairs, the exhibition focuses more on Balenciagas lasting legacy and those he has inspired. Against the dombed ceiling, three videos of current designers such as Mollie Goddard and Gareth Pugh who speak about how Balenciaga has influenced them and their design work. A series of parallels are drawn between contemporary designs and historical Balenciaga pieces such as the below by Hussein Chalayan and Oscar De La Renta which are likened to textured coat and silk work dress previous mentioned.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion London Hand EmbroideryThis exhibition is a well rounded insight into the Balenciaga brand with lots of lovely couture examples and the technical specification to go with them which is interesting for those with and without exisiting fashion knowledge.  Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion will be running at the Victoria and Albert Museum‘s Fashion and Textiles Gallery Space (Room 40) until Sunday 18th February 2018 so if you have the opportunity to see it, it is worth the visit. Tickets cost £12.00 and some concessions are available.

All images and videos courtsey of Natasha Searls-Punter (@tashasearlspunter) unless otherwise stated.

Filed Under: Embroidery, Fashion, London Tagged With: Balenciaga, beading, bespoke, couture, design, dresses, dressmaking, embellishment, embroidery, fashion, gowns, London, pattern, pattern cutting, Shaping Fashion, silk shading, silk work, Tailoring, tambour beading, toiling, tools, V & A Museum, VAM, victoria and albert museum

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane Fantasy

September 19, 2017 by Eleanor Rowlands

Fashion week is here! We have had the absolute pleasure of working with the one the only Joshua Kane for his Spring Summer 2018 Collection ‘Fantasy’. It is always a delight to see our work come to life on the catwalk, and out there for the world to see!

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane Fantasy London Hand Embroidery

A close up to show the 3D effect of the tailor,

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane Fantasy London Hand Embroidery
We are loving the attention to detail, The Tailor on the shoes

 

View this post on Instagram

PREVIEW… with a little over 24 hours until the curtain raises on my #jkfantasy collection. The '3 tailors' brought to life from film to embellishment. #jkfantasy #lfw #runway #details

A post shared by Joshua Kane (@joshuakanebespoke) on Sep 14, 2017 at 7:59am PDT

 

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane Fantasy London Hand Embroidery

 

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane Fantasy London Hand Embroidery

 

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane Fantasy London Hand Embroidery

My personal favourite is this incredible leather jacket! Raised embroidered sleeves. This really is a dream!

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane Fantasy London Hand Embroidery

It is safe to say that we are living the fantasy here at Hawthorne and Heaney

 

Check out the whole collection here Follow Joshua Kane on Instagram, we cannot wait to see what he comes up with next season!

 

Filed Under: Embroidery, Fashion, London, London Embroidery, Tailoring Tagged With: bespoke, blaclk, butterfly, embroidery, fantasy, fashion, gold, horse, joshua Kane, kane, leather, London, red, Tailoring

  • Go to page 1
  • Go to page 2
  • Go to page 3
  • Go to page 4
  • Go to Next Page »
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Email
  • +44 (0)20 7886 8574

© Copyright 2018