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HAWTHORNE & HEANEY

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Hawthorne & Heaney

Hawthorne & Heaney on The Marketplace

December 28, 2020 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Hawthorne & Heaney on The Marketplace London Hand EmbroideryHawthorne & Heaney Personalisation booth in action

2020 has been a wierd year, for the past few years we have got into a rhythm that by the time about October comes, we will be doing a lot of monogramming and personalisation events. However this year, that didnt happen.

Hawthorne & Heaney on The Marketplace London Hand EmbroideryKirk Original Glasses against a backdrop of Millie Bridget Henry Hankies and Tyler & Tyler Accessories

 

We could not just sit idly by though and not have an event, so we created one for ourselves. Along with a whole host of fabulous creators, we joined togather in the Service on Savile Row to create The Marketplace.

Hawthorne & Heaney on The Marketplace London Hand Embroidery

The Workers club gloves, Back Yard Gym Cold Brew and Coffee Beans from the Fresh Coffee Company, Wool Scarf from Dugdale Bros. and Co, Handkerchief by Millie Bridget Henry in a Hawthorne & Heaney Personalised Bag

 

Cad and the Dandy, Baron bags, Dugdale Bros and Co.,the Fresh Coffee Company, Kirk Originals, The Workers Club, Tyler & Tyler, Department Two, Kibble Watches, Tsai x Tsai, Millie Bridget Henry, Gotrich & Co. , Gownsmith, Colhays and Hawthorne & Heaney created a bespoke and specialist style items one stop shop.  Curated to bring together hankerchieves, small batch roasted coffee beans, dressing gowns, glasses frames and personalised bags to name but a few, the Marketplace was a treasure trove of beautiful, unusual, crafted gifts.

Hawthorne & Heaney on The Marketplace London Hand EmbroideryCad & the Dandy jackets, Millie Bridget Henry Hankies, Kirk Original Glasses

 

Sadly with the rerestricting of London going into tier 4, the marketplace is now closedbut we had great (safe) fun whilst we could- which feels like the whole of 2020 summed up dont you think?

Hawthorne & Heaney on The Marketplace London Hand EmbroideryCoffee Beans from the Fresh Coffee Company, Wool Scarf from Dugdale Bros. and Co, Handkerchief by Millie Bridget Henry in a Hawthorne & Heaney Personalised Bag

 

So if you’re think about next year and want to hold an event, get in touch, we’d love to hear from you and are raring to get out there (socially distanced of course)

Filed Under: Embroidery, Fashion, London, Monograms, Tailoring Tagged With: bags, Baron bags, bespoke, Cad and the Dandy, Colhays, custom, Department Two, Dugdale Bros and Co., embroidery, events, Gotrich & Co., Gownsmith, Hawthorne & Heaney, Initials, Kibble Watches, Kirk Originals, London, Millie Bridget Henry, Monogram, monogramming, personalisation station, personalising, savile row, the Fresh Coffee Company, The Workers Club, Tsai x Tsai, Tyler & Tyler

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams

February 28, 2019 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams London Hand EmbroideryIf your instagram feed is anything like ours then you will not have failed to notice the hugh amount of attention that the Dior: Designer of Dreams exhibition is getting at the V & A Museum at the moment. Following its opening on the 2nd February, the exhibition which is held in the museum’s new Sainsbury wing, it has received an unprescedented amount of visitors.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams London Hand EmbroideryThe exhibition is currently sold out, with tickets being drip released around the 15th of each month and a few kept back each day on a first come first served basis. Members of the V&A however can still visit at their leisure and Hawthorne and Heaney were lucky enough to visit the exhibition on members night in order to bring you our insight.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams London Hand EmbroideryThe London exhibition has a much greater focus on the individual designers of the House of Dior so if you had already seen it at Musee Des Arts Decoratifs in Paris, then this version brings a different angle. Split into a series of sections, this part of the exhibition really gives you a sense of what each creative director has brought to the house. Furthermore it also highlights some of the key aspects of Dior as a fashion house, which holds all the designs together over the years. Identifying these values allows them to keep delivering pieces which are recognisably ‘Dior’.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams London Hand EmbroideryEach rooms has its own sense of the wow factor with the paper cut flowers room, displaying some of the more romantic pieces amongst the flowers which were dripping from the ceiling. The center piece of which is this gown embellished with hundreds of tiny cut feathers.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams London Hand EmbroideryWe can not cover this exhibition without mentioning the toile room. Probably the simplist room with its ehite cubes, it really brings home the process of producing couture garments and the work that goes into them. It is lovely to look around and recognise some of the dresses you have already seen the final versions of, in their developmental form. As well as taking the time to watch the series of videos they have on display amongst the toiles which show the making process of other Dior producs such as shoes and jewellery from their specialist makers.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams London Hand EmbroiderySome of the toiles have notes and annotations left on them which highlight the complexity of the pattern cutting when all the other details are stripped away in white.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams London Hand EmbroideryFrom an embroiderers perpective, there is plenty to see and appreciate in this exhibition. The variety of styles and techniques is huge so whilst all the pieces may not necessarily be your taste, you can not help but be humbled by the skill.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams London Hand EmbroideryGoldwork, raffia, feathers and beads all feature in this Galliano piece created for Dior by Lesage.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams London Hand EmbroideryAn interesting use of mesh appliques create the beatle wing/ petal effect amongst the sequins on this gown from the 1950’s.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams London Hand EmbroideryWhere else would you get the chance to get this up close and personal with dresses like this one, worn by Charlize Theron in the ‘J’adore’ adverts?

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams London Hand EmbroideryIt is here that you can see that the sequins are tamboured onto the tuelle by hand with their joining stitches adding to the texture of the piece.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams London Hand EmbroiderySome of the more contemporary pieces provide a different perspective on ‘les petite mains’ (the little hands; referring to the skilled makers that create the designers vision) that we get to see a modern application of traditonal skills such as the use of beads and velvet in this a line evening gown.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams London Hand EmbroideryOf course, there are also the iconic, historical pieces that you have probably glimpst before, like this gown worn by Princess Margaret for her 21st Birthday photoshoot.

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams London Hand Embroidery

If you find the opportunity, then this exhibition is a absolute must see for fashion, design and embroidery fans everywhere. Follow the link for all the booking details.

All photos courtesy of Natasha Searls-Punter

Dior: Designer of Dreams

The Victoria and Albert Museum, London

On now until 14th July 2019 (extended to the 1st Sept 2019)

 

 

Filed Under: Embroidery, Fashion, London Tagged With: bespoke, bespoke embroidery, Christian Dior, couture, designer of dreams, dior, embellishment, embroidery, Embroidery London, exhibition, hand embroidery, Hawthorne & Heaney, London, stitching, v and a museum, victoria and albert museum

Hawthorne & Heaney, Short Internship Available

August 13, 2018 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Hawthorne & Heaney, Short Internship Available London Hand EmbroiderySample by Charlotte Pearson

Hawthorne & Heaney is currently looking for an embroidery intern to join us for a few weeks in August 2018. Usually we only take internships of 3 months or more but we have a short period when we are looking for a little extra help between the 20th August and 7th Sept.

 Duties will include machine and hand sewing, general administration, maintenance of the social media sites, research, assisting with embroidery preparation for both the staff and for the School and errands. Applicants must be hard working, versatile, enthusiastic, professional, responsible and able work well in a small team. Attention to detail is a must along with patience as nothing in embroidery is particularly quick.

Specific Needs

  • Sewing skills are essential, and a proficiency in both hand and machine sewing would be ideal.
  • Computer knowledge of both MAC and PC, ideally with an understanding of adobe programs and G drive
  • Trend aware
  • Looking to gain experience in a live studio in the embroidery sector
  • Must be a current undergraduate student of a fashion/textiles related course
  • Able to travel into London every day

This internship is unpaid and should be taken in addition to a current undergraduate course, we are therefore unable to accept non students for this position. Hours are full time, Monday- friday 9-5pm.

If you would be interested in furthering your studies please fill out the attached form.

Hawthorne & Heaney, Short Internship Available London Hand EmbroideryElsie Wong (Former Intern) with her sample work

Filed Under: Embroidery, London Tagged With: application, bespoke embroidery, fashion, Hawthorne & Heaney, intern, internship, learning, work experience

Hawthorne & Heaney teams up with John Smedley

May 29, 2018 by Eleanor Rowlands

Here at Hawthorne & Heaney, we were very busy during London Craft Week. While having an explore around some exhibitions we also teamed up with John Smedley to personalise some of their lovely knitwear.

Hawthorne & Heaney teams up with John Smedley London Hand Embroidery

Founded in 1784 they are one of the longest-running knitwear manufacturers in the world.  Specialising in beautifully designed garments that are made to last. Crafted in Britain and distributed all over the world.

Hawthorne & Heaney teams up with John Smedley London Hand Embroidery

In 1825 they moved on to producing garments using one of the first ever fully fashioned knitting machines, creating the original “Long Johns”.

Hawthorne & Heaney teams up with John Smedley London Hand Embroidery

Moving into the 1950s and 1960 the brand became very popular with many famous faces, from Audrey Hepburn to the Beatles. By the 1980s many British fashion houses saught the work of John Smedley, such as Paul Smith and Vivienne Westwood.

  Hawthorne & Heaney teams up with John Smedley London Hand Embroidery

In 2013 they were granted the Royal Warrant of Appointment.

Hawthorne & Heaney teams up with John Smedley London Hand Embroidery

Two of our wonderfully talented hand embroiderers spent the day in their Mayfair store, offering a little something extra to their knitwear.Hawthorne & Heaney teams up with John Smedley London Hand Embroidery

 

Filed Under: Embroidery Tagged With: bespoke, bespoke embroidery, craft, embroidery, Embroidery London, event, fashion, Fashion Embroidery, gifts, hand embroidery, Hawthorne & Heaney, Hawthorne and Heaney, London Craft Week, Monogram, personal, Personalised, stitching

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week

May 21, 2018 by Eleanor Rowlands

What were you doing last week? Specifically 9-13 May. Did you manage to catch London Craft Week? Well, it’s alright if you missed it, because we are here to share with you what we did and learned!

This festival that spans across London celebrates British and international creativity. Covering a vast range of disciplines, it brought together over 200 established and emerging makers, designers, brands and galleries from around the world.

We started our journey in the heart of English bespoke tailoring- Savile Row. The Row that is entrenched deep in history, famous worldwide, houses over 100 craftsman in more than a dozen bespoke tailoring business. It is a community that not only produces the esteemed English luxurious product but is active in training new craftsman. We had the chance to attend an hour-long masterclass pattern cutting at Henry Poole & Co.  In the brief hour, taught by one of the cutters about dinner jackets, he engaged us on the construction of the trouser pattern. First, measurement was taken off a gentleman in the room, then he moved onto crafting the pattern. Primarily using the Centre Front Centre Back cutting system, where scales and mathematics are used to give proportions so as to draft for the body of the customer.

 

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Dinner Suit Trouser Pattern Cutting Process | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

 

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Henry Poole & Co Ltd Suits | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

After the hour, we gained a heightened respect for the craft of tailoring. Behind one jacket, it involves roughly 10 artisans, who engage in the making of the various sections of the garment. They perfect the moulding and shaping of the fabric so that it sits perfectly on the body. Bespoke tailoring suits are certainly a class of their own in both elegance and comfort.

Next, we ventured down to Sloane Square, to discover Maria Svarbova’s photography series that was the inspiration behind Delpozo Spring Summer 2018 ‘Musicalia’ collection. We were blown away by the beautiful photographs, that has this retro-futuristic. The artist describes the series as having a sense of ‘artificial detachment’, although set in a retro environment, ‘the pictures somehow evoke a futuristic feeling as well, as if they were taken somewhere completely alien.’, the moment is frozen in time. In addition, the symmetrical composition enhances the ethereal quality.

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Image: Maria Svarbova

Looking at the collection alongside the photographs, there is much resemblance in the colour palette. Creative director, Josep Font skillfully translated the swimming pool blue that ripples throughout the photographs, into the choice of the fabric and embroidery. Complimenting them with pastel shades of yellow, pink, and definitely the shocking red, there is a sense of a dreamlike atmosphere.

 

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Delpozo embroidery contrasted with Maria Svarbova’s photographs

 

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

 

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Delpozo embroidery contrasted with Maria Svarbova’s photographs

 

In addition, the geometric lines and stillness of the pool, reminds us of the intimate atmosphere at the atelier; cool, architectural and beautiful, a style synonym with the brand.

Lastly, we headed to the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize at the Design Museum, that will be held till 17 June. This exhibition best summarises craft and artistic endeavours all over the world. Exhibiting a range of international works that stretch across practices, such as ceramics, papercraft, woodwork to jewellery. Entering the exhibition, visitors are provided with an audio guide, that gives a detailed explanations about the works, aiding further appreciation and understanding of the craft in view.

One theme that ran throughout all the works exhibited is that there are continued efforts made to revive traditional techniques alongside pushing the boundaries of the skill. An example is a winning piece by Jennifer Lee, who mixed metallic oxides into clay to create colour, a technique that she discovered. Complimenting this avant-garde colouring technique, with an ancient practice of pinching and coiling clay, it resulted in the creation of a beautiful speckled surface. The varying gradient of bands that encircle the piece, resembles time frozen between traditional and contemporary.

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Jennifer Lee (Winning Prize) Pale, Shadowed Speckled Traces, Fading Elipse, Bronze Specks, Tilted Shelf, 2017 | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

Another work, that we truly appreciate is by Takuro Kuwata’s Tea Bowl. Unlike traditional potters, who often aims to hide any cracks in their work, Kuwata defies that norm. He enhances the impression of chaos, that is natural to the unpredictable nature of ceramics, by making it the feature point of his work. By combining porcelain with platinum and steel, he challenges the possibility of materials. The melted and crack surface of the work is complemented with the saturated green patina, that makes the work contemporary and elegant.

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Takuro Kuwata, Tea Bowl, 2017 | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

 

Embroidery is also celebrated at this exhibition! Richard McVetis, who is captivated by the meditative nature of the process, draws with needle and thread. He embroidered sixty cubes over the duration of sixty hours, materialising time into something tactile and visual.

 

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Richard McVetis , Variations of a Stitched Cube,2017 | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

 

Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week London Hand Embroidery
Richard McVetis , Variations of a Stitched Cube,2017 | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

 

Perched on 60 beams, the 60 cubes remind me of the globe of islands, but in a square. It is a rather fun way of curating the world and plays on the idea that the world is not round but square.

London Craft Week is truly a celebration of hands that spans multiple disciplines. It makes us cherish and esteem the time and energy that goes into crafting beautiful objects. Unlike mass produced items that are often regarded as disposable, the work of the hand interweaves personal stories and beauty into everything made. In this age of mass consumption and disposal, we are glad that there is a renaissance in the appreciation of creativity and craft worldwide. We at Hawthorne & Heaney, are definitely standing behind that resurgence and hope to safeguard the shared heritage of craft.

Filed Under: Art, Embroidery, Embroidery, Fashion, Interior Design, London, London Embroidery, Tailoring Tagged With: art, bespoke, bespoke embroidery, craft, craft week, design, embellishment, embroidery, exhibition, Hawthorne & Heaney, history, London, London Craft Week, London Embroidery, Tailoring

Hawthorne & Heaney does Victoria Secret

April 12, 2018 by Eleanor Rowlands

Last weekend, we had another monogramming event with lingerie brand Victoria Secret. It was held at their brand new store on bond street.  

To celebrate their opening, customers were able to have their Victoria Secret robe personalised with their initials. They were able to choose from two fonts, and a range of colours. We were glad to be able to celebrate with them.

Below, are some pictures of the event:

 

Hawthorne & Heaney does Victoria Secret London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney does Victoria Secret London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney does Victoria Secret London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney does Victoria Secret London Hand Embroidery

If you were lucky enough to get your hands on one of these robes, we would love to see a photo! Tag us on Instagram @hawthorneheaney

Filed Under: Embroidery, Fashion, London, London Embroidery Tagged With: bespoke embroidery, custom, embroidery, Embroidery London, event, fashion, Fashion Embroidery, gifts, Hawthorne & Heaney, Initials, letters, lingerie, London, machine, machine embroidery, Monogram, monogramming, opening, personal, personalisation, Personalised, pink, robe, shop, Silk, sleepwear, store, underwear, victoria secret

Hawthorne & Heaney to the Rescue!

March 28, 2018 by Eleanor Rowlands

There is nothing worse when a beloved item of clothing becomes damaged! whether it be a tear or a pesky moth has taken a bite.

While this may feel like the end of an item. Fear not, with a bit of embroidery we can bring your garment back to life!

With some tricks up our sleeves and a creative eye. We brought new life to this cashmere coat with some Goldwork bees!

Hawthorne & Heaney to the Rescue! London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney to the Rescue! London Hand Embroidery

Even though there were only a few holes we added more bees to make them a feature of the coat. 

Hawthorne & Heaney to the Rescue! London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney to the Rescue! London Hand Embroidery

We have also come to the aid of split seams! this beautiful tartan jacket came to us. One of our very talented embroiderer, designed this stunning humming bird with blues and yellows.

Hawthorne & Heaney to the Rescue! London Hand Embroidery

One Bird just want enough!

Hawthorne & Heaney to the Rescue! London Hand Embroidery

Let us know your thoughts! 

Filed Under: Embroidery, Embroidery, Fashion, London, London Embroidery, Tailoring Tagged With: art, bee, bespoke, bespoke embroidery, blue, bullion, cad, coat, construction, custom, embellishment, embroidery, fashion, Fashion Embroidery, garmen, gold, goldwork, hand embroidery, Hawthorne & Heaney, individual, jacket, London, machine embroidery, metal, moth hole, Personalised, print, Tailoring, yellow

Hawthorne & Heaney :Dismantling of a Victorian Mourning Shawl

January 18, 2018 by Eleanor Rowlands

Hawthorne & Heaney :Dismantling of a Victorian Mourning Shawl London Hand Embroidery

WHO, WHAT & WHY?

Hawthorne & Heaney was given the Victorian shawl by Sue Thomas from Savile Row bespoke.

HISTORY

In the Victorian era, black was considered the appropriate colour to be worn when mourning the loss of a loved one and in some cultures, this is still the case today. It is believed that the mourning attire was a protection against negative thoughts. By wearing the colour black it also informed family, friends and acquaintances that the wearer had recently lost someone close to them and was a warning not to approach them within this sad period of time. For women, the fashion symbolised the depth of affliction with the colour of clothing indicating the gradual return from black to bold clothing through the hues of purple and violet, this was recognised as the second stage of mourning. The length of time Victorian women wore mourning garments varied on the degree of relationship with the deceased from a week up to a year.

Hawthorne & Heaney :Dismantling of a Victorian Mourning Shawl London Hand Embroidery

DISMANTLING OF THE SHAWL

The dismantling of the shawl was a very long process as parts of the shawl was originally constructed using an embroidery technique called tambour beading. Tambour is French for drum and is done by using a hook where the fabric is stretched as tight as a drum. The fabric can be stretched by being sewn onto a rectangular frame or placed in a wooden hoop. The Tambour hook makes a chain stitch in a technical order where it will keep each bead securely in place. If the knot or process of the tambour chain stitch was to be done incorrectly then the whole beadwork would come undone. Depending on your experience using the Tambour technique beads can be secured in place very fast this is why a lot of fashion houses such as Dior are well known for using this technique in order to get garments completed on a tight time schedule. To get each bead loose from the shawl the embroidery stitches were cut allowing the bead to be free. Once all the beads were eventually dismantled from the Victorian shawl they were sorted into bags so all the same beads were neatly secured and measured ready to be used again. Below you are able to see photographs of sections from the shawl being dismantled.

Hawthorne & Heaney :Dismantling of a Victorian Mourning Shawl London Hand Embroidery

NEW PURPOSE

It is very important to Hawthorne & Heaney that the beads are used in another exciting project. This is because of the heritage behind this shawl and the construction that went into the making of it was exquisite. With the shawl being so old it was beginning to fall apart and unable to be restored therefore there was no other option but to take it apart and store the beads safely away until we find a project that will give them a new purpose. We are unsure currently what that project will be but we are sure we will know when the time comes.

Filed Under: Art, Embroidery, Fashion Tagged With: beading, beads, black, embellishment, embroidery, Fashion Embroidery, hand embroidery, Hawthorne & Heaney, historical, history, jet, London, repurposing, restoration, shawl, textiles, victorian

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