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graduates

Hawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020

July 22, 2020 by Natasha Searls-Punter

This year thus far, it can definitely be said to have been an unusual one at the least but some things must remain and the show go on. This year’s textile graduates may not have had their usual physical showcase of their works but they have worked very hard and will be graduating none the less. 

We at Hawthorne and Heaney are very proud to have these young people choose to spend some of their industry experience time with us, and after working with them in the studio for some months it is wonderful to see how their work has grown and progressed since we saw it last. Therefore it is out pleasure to bring you this year’s graduates from the Hawthorne and Heaney intern community:

Kiah Nicole Fisher– Loughborough University- Textiles: Innovation and Design

Luminescence: ”This project is based on the scientific theory of the existence of other dimensional/parallel universes and visualising the journey one might take to enter another dimension. Parallel universes have been a scientific theory studied by many physicists and mathematicians throughout the centuries, including Plato who’s Cave allegory seems to imply that our three dimensional world is but a projection of an even higher dimensional reality. I was initially inspired by the story of Alice in Wonderland, when Alice falls into the rabbit hole. Mathematician and writer Lewis Carroll was able to visualise the idea of connecting multiple universes through the possibility of wormholes within this children’s book.

Taking inspiration from science fiction movies and series that attempted to visualise inter-dimensional travel through hyperspace with flashing lights, such as 2001: A Space Odyssey, I mainly used photography to create original imagery that attempted to capture light in different states such as refraction, emission, and much more.

With this imagery, I was able to create a print design collection for a menswear/unisex utilitarian style collection. This collection would be an accessible fashion collection for those inner nerds who have a love for science fiction but don’t necessarily want to indulge in the fantasy of costume. This collection allows people to express their passion for science fiction, while making it fashionable and wearable.”

Hawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020 London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020 London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020 London Hand Embroidery

 

 

Laura Hill– Loughborough University- Textiles: Innovation and Design

Conscious Coastlines: ”Uses organic cotton, organic linen, recycled fibres, and yarn leftover from previous projects that would otherwise go to waste.
All synthetic dyes used contain no animal ingredients and were chosen based on their minimal levels of toxicity to the environment.

My final major project explores the creation of a “conscious” collection of textiles for the everyday interior environment and the everyday consumer. The theme is inspired by the natural beauty of all elements British coastlines. In the context of the project, “conscious” means that no animal products have been used in any stage of production, and so it can be regarded as a vegan collection. “Conscious” also refers to the choices to use more sustainable fibres and less toxic dyes.

Within my work I am a fast learner, observant, and methodical in my process. My strengths include a good understanding and use of colour, and the way in which I successfully translate a design from drawing to fabric. In my future career I aim to promote cruelty-free and sustainable practises within the textiles industry, and hope to work for a company whose values on these topics align with my own.”

Hawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020 London Hand Embroidery

Fading Waves

Hawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020 London Hand Embroidery

 

 

Amy Pickard– Huddersfield University- Costume with Textiles

”This year, I chose the construction with textiles pathway, specialising in embroidery. For my Final Major Project, I selected ‘Awakened’, a modern-day YA vampyre novel by P.C. & Kristin Cast. I’ve created the costume for Queen Sgiach, a powerful feminist and Scottish vampyre Warrior, who resides on the Isle of Skye. This directly inspired the colours, textures and motifs in her portrayal. Creating for a simulcast theatre performance allowed for detailed textiles, goldwork and beading, alongside bold digital embroidery to be explored throughout the project. Sustainability has been the key ethos surrounding my project/ practice this year. I sourced second-hand fabrics and accessories, used surplus or handmade embellishments, e.g. homemade sequins, and minimised waste when creating my costume and textiles collection. Similarly, I used only viscose instead of traditional polyester threads. For these, Madeira UK granted me a student sponsorship. Through this project, I have progressed my passion for embroidery and construction, predominantly corsetry. I also explored my interests with the following companies through a placement year: Oxfam Online Shop; The Alhambra Theatre; Hawthorne and Heaney; Hand & Lock. Additionally, I started my own business to fund my London placements; I am developing this further after graduation.”

Hawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020 London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020 London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020 London Hand Embroidery

 

 

Jessica Strain– Loughborough University- Textiles: Innovation and Design

Nature Reclaiming Spaces:  ”Jessica’s graduate collection Nature Reclaiming Spaces, focuses on fusing the best of what modern machinery has to offer with specialist hand led embroidery and lacemaking techniques. Passion for manual processes can be seen throughout Jessica’s work; double exposure film photography, shuttle tatting and limerick lace were driving processes for this project.

Sustainability is at the heart of Jessica’s design process; she experimented with natural dyeing at home and spent hundreds of hours embroidering her pieces by hand. This intensive and considered approach to design is something she will take forward in her career. She aspires to continue creating work in a studio environment, honing her embroidery skills through future projects.”

Hawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020 London Hand EmbroideryHawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020 London Hand Embroidery

 

Hawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020 London Hand Embroidery

 

 

 

Abigail Tominey- Smith – Nottingham Trent University- Textiles

The Feel Good Feminine: ”Bringing together beautiful feminine florals and powerful text to represent strong women of the 21st century. Powerful words to showcase powerful women, to contrast with, and highlight their femininity. Created to inspire positive well-being and to improve the mental health of women through promotion of empowering words. Adding an additional level of meaning and a personal aspect to each design, producing a garment with emotional durability. Designing a luxurious and individual collection for a high-end bespoke womenswear market, personalised with text. Incorporating a calm and delicate colour palette on a range of sophisticated fabrics with mix of digital and hand embellished elements.”

Hawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020 London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020 London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020 London Hand EmbroideryHawthorne & Heaney Presents Graduating Class of 2020 London Hand Embroidery

I’m sure that has left you feeling quite inspired by these designers, we can’t wait to see what comes next for them as they embark on their careers. 

Filed Under: Art, Embroidery, Embroidery, Fashion, London Tagged With: 2020, abi tominey smith, amy pickard, community, costume, costume design, embellishment, embroiderers, embroidery, grad, graduates, huddersfield, intern, jessica strain, kiah nicole fisher, laura hill, loughborough, nottingham trent, print, textiles, university

Hawthorne & Heaney for Young Designers

August 11, 2016 by Natasha Searls-Punter

At this time of year we are lucky enough to get a sneak peak at some of the freshest fashion talent around as Students from all over contact us with their ideas for their final collections. This insight into the future of fashion is always so exciting to see and often pushes us beyond our usual style or way of approaching a project. This year we have been working with designers such as Mary Ashcroft, Naomi Bartling and Palmina Cerullo.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Young Designers London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for Young Designers London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for Young Designers London Hand Embroidery

Mary Ashcroft has a bold aesthetic, using machine embroidery also to add large strokes of texture to her piece emulating a paint brush. With this piece she brings together multiple textures of fabric as the embroidery act as the seam between Mac plastic, Velvet and Felt. This exposes the way the fabrics react differently to the introduction of the embroidery with the punched out nature of the plastic and the way the pile of the velvet peeks through the heavy stitching on the velvet areas.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Young Designers London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for Young Designers London Hand Embroidery

Naomi Bartling took a very different approach to the other graduates, using embroidery to bring together many different elements to built a multitude of colour texture and interest. This eclectic approach to her embroidery created some really eye catching pieces as we took apart existing hair pieces and corsages, and reassembled them. We also produced this moss covered piece for her, embellished with a range of 3D beaded motifs.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Young Designers London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for Young Designers London Hand Embroidery

Palmina Cerullo from the University for the Creative Arts went for a more traditional embroidery route, with her hand embroidered blue bullion work chair designs. The punchy colours of the bullion stands out wonderfully against the suiting fabrics.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Young Designers London Hand Embroidery

If you would like to get in contact with us about a project you are working on, please drop us an email, we would love to hear your ideas…

 

Filed Under: Embroidery, Fashion, London Tagged With: bullion, chair, designs, embroidery, fashion, final collection, future fashion, goldwork, graduates, hand embroidery, London, machine embroidery, mary ashcroft, naomi bartling, palmina cerullo, patches, south africa, students, UAL, uca, university of the creative arts

Hawthorne & Heaney on New Designers

July 14, 2016 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Every June, Islington’s Business Design Centre plays host to some of the most exciting offerings this years graduates have to bring in the New Designers Exhibition Part 1. Hawthorne and Heaney  went down to see what it was all about this year and to bring you the most exciting pieces. With the show split into sections where each university champions their best students, there is plenty to see.

Nottingham Trent University exhibited some work from students such as Hannah Croft of Muuna. Her work has a beautiful crystalline quality as she blurs the line between minerals and fabric fusing them together. She combines practises from her experience as an embroidery and woven designer to create these visually intriguing pieces.

Hawthorne & Heaney on New Designers London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney on New Designers London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney on New Designers London Hand Embroidery

There was also work by Josey Mendez who works predominately with CAD embroidery and fabric manipulation to create this collection which she exhibited called ‘Movement of Nature’ which is inspired by the contrast of shorelines.

Hawthorne & Heaney on New Designers London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney on New Designers London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney on New Designers London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney on New Designers London Hand Embroidery

 

Rosamund Hanny has produced a very beautiful collection of samples which include pages technique, CAD and ombre tassels to create these elegant installations which traverse art, textile design and fashion. Featured were pieces from her award winning collection ‘Wings and Feathers’ as well as a piece from her anticipated new collection  ‘Fins and Scales’. Inspired by the natural world, Hanny’s work is underpinned by a strong ethical design philosophy. Incorporating environmentally conscious processes such as exhaust dyeing, along with up-cycled materials including vintage wedding dress silks

‘Wings and Feathers is a textile art installation inspired by the vibrancy and fragility of nature. The work synchronises traditional and contemporary techniques to create overworked and innovative textile pieces, incorporating digital and hand embroidery, sublimation printing and exhaust dyeing.’

Hawthorne & Heaney on New Designers London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney on New Designers London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney on New Designers London Hand Embroidery

Another designer who stood out from the One Year On section was Alice Wheatley of ‘This is Alice’ . Her glass wear pieces have an other worldly quality with their body parts captured in the glass which is both intriguing and unsettling.

‘This is a concept installation, a reflection of entrapment. This is indiscriminate and indifferent, a fateful episode. This is suppressed and secreted, an estrangement from being. This is an existence, a life with consequences. This is a restriction and confinement, a history of forgotten and forsaken people. This is somebody else’s life, a moment, take a look. This is Alice.’

Hawthorne & Heaney on New Designers London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney on New Designers London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney on New Designers London Hand EmbroideryThe new designers exhibition is only on for a few days each year so make sure you watch out for the window of opportunity to see the collection while it is on. The best of luck to all the new graduates which showed and well done! We are already looking forward to next year…

Filed Under: Embroidery, Fashion, London Tagged With: alice wheatley, cad, crystals, embroidery, exhibition, fabric, fabric manipulation, glass, graduates, hannah croft, islington, josye mendez, minerals, muuna, new designers, ombre, rosamund hanny, tassels, textile design, this is alice

London Fashion and H&H

June 4, 2014 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Hawthorne & Heaney always watch the emergence of new fashion graduates with great interest and feel its very important to encourage young designers in order to propel fashion forwards.  Over the last week there has been plenty of new talent coming through and this talent has been displaying a range of extremely innovative embroidery.   Starting with CSM and RCA and working into graduate fashion week there has been plenty of techniques on display.

Olga Kuryschuk displayed a delicate silver and white collection, with lace applique and a swathe of crystals strewn across the garments in a nonchalant manner.

London Fashion and H&H London Hand Embroidery London Fashion and H&H London Hand Embroidery

Amie Robertson and Richard Quinn opted for bolder, structural applications of large shaped sequins or floral pieces for a more 3D effect.

London Fashion and H&H London Hand EmbroideryLondon Fashion and H&H London Hand Embroidery

While Flora Cadzow incorporated fine machine embroidery into her sheer fabrics.

London Fashion and H&H London Hand Embroidery

London is always such a haven for young designers because it is so open to embracing the experimental, innovative and the quirky. Therefore finding new and exciting ways to present embroidery and reinvent old techniques in fashion gives is very exciting and challenging. In the past, we have had great fun working with emerging designers, like these graduate may go on to be.

We work with the designer right through from the initial idea, translating drawings into embroidery during the sampling process, development, placement and finally the realised products in production. In collections past we have worked with designers such as Isa Arfen, Reem Juan, Sibling, and Claire Barrow just to name a few.

London Fashion and H&H London Hand Embroidery

Free Falling Crystal and Bead Tassels from Isa Arfen

London Fashion and H&H London Hand Embroidery

Delicate Silk shaded body suit from Reem Juan

London Fashion and H&H London Hand Embroidery

Islamic Inspired floral goldwork cap from Sibling

London Fashion and H&H London Hand Embroidery

Fully couture beaded dress from Claire Barrow

Being a London based studio, we provide a more inclusive approach to embroidery for fashion as well as being able to modestly boast 15 collective years of industry experience.   If you have an idea about some embroidery that you would like to have done, but don’t have the capacity to make it happen, contact us and we can see what we can do to make it a reality. For more examples of fashion embroidery by Hawthorne & Heaney, have a browse of our pinterest board

Filed Under: Embroidery, Fashion, London, London Embroidery Tagged With: beading, Claire Barrow, crystals, CSM, embroidery, fashion, future of fashion, goldwork, graduates, Isa Arfen, lace, London, production, Reem Juan, Sibling, students, tassels

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