Embroidery

Ever wondered about some of the techniques behind our Embroideries ?

June 6, 2019 by Natasha Searls-Punter

As well as being an embroidery studio, we also have a school which teaches embroidery some evenings and weekends. Our classes are mostly hand embroidery but we have recently added a machine embroidery class to our repetoire. The classes can be found under the London Embroidery School which is also us!

The London Embroidery School website as well as being a place to book classes and purchase embroidery materials is also a great information hub for tips and tricks for embroidery. These can be found under the pro tips series and range from the basics like how to thread a needle (we talk about 4 styles to choose from, not exclusively) to more specialist techniques like prick and pounce:

Or how to use a particular tool, like the curved scissors, a studio favourite;

Hawthorne & Heaney inspired by the Making Memory Exhibition

April 21, 2019 by Natasha Searls-Punter

At the start of last month, we posted a blog by our intern Kiah from her visit to the David Adjaye’s Making Memory Exhibition. Taking inspiration from this, she produced a series of drawings from the elements she found inspiring. With her drawing style being quite graphic, she favoured the staircase elements of Adjaye’s designs, bringing in the play fo the light and shadows on the stairs as you can see from the drawings above.

These were then translated into a repeating CAD embroidery design which she embellished with a variety of techniques that she has been practising from the classes taken at the London Embroidery school

These can be seen in the addition of the sequins at the top and bottom:

There is also the clever use of some very neat satin stitches in stranded cotton

And the more specialist raised cutwork bullion squares to finish it off

We also asked Kiah to show us how she imaged her textiles being used within an interiors context, so she produced these lovely visualisations of her work as used in a hotel or luxury office space.

Hawthorne & Heaney at Anine Bing

April 15, 2019 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Hawthorne and Heaney have been out and about with our stitching kits this weekend past as we were based at Harvey Nichols for Skandi chic brand, Anine Bing.

All set up in store for stitching

Perusing the embroidery options

Script style stitching onto camo jacket

Block style stitching onto sweatshirt

Script style stitching onto shirt

Large Script style stitching onto sweatshirt for Louise Redknapp

The lovely store ladies modelling their personalised camo jackets

A little lightening bolt detail for the back

Super cute chain stitched S onto knitted jumper

Block style name onto the back of a sweatshirt

Block style Intials onto shirt collar

After what you can see was a very busy and sucessful hand event, we can’t wait for our next one. If you would like to be our next event, get in touch!

Hawthorne & Heaney on Ribbons

April 3, 2019 by Natasha Searls-Punter

When you think about personalisation, people usually associate it with garments, but it doesn’t have to be restricted to them. We recently did a project with a tablescape designer extrordinare Fiona Leahy for the Aerin èclat de vert perfume launch dinner in De Crillon in Paris.

Stunning right?!?!

(All above Images courtesy of Fiona Leahy Designs)

Hawthorne & Heaney’s Special Project

March 29, 2019 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Here at Hawthorne & Heaney we had a bit of a special project on at the moment for a certain wedding that took place in September 2018. We were tasked with creating the chasuble for the priest to wear for our Director’s wedding.

Approaching a garment like this is a sizeable task because of the importance of the imagery and the congregation that will see it. Designed by our director, the cross shaped design features a large image of the holy spirit as a dove at the top. This was inspired by an old piece of cut work embroidery which we are reinterpreting for machine embroidery. We wanted it to retain some of the original cutwork movement which can be seen in the direction of the running stitches and feathers. This also informed the choice of metallic silver for the details to get that shimmer amongst the sheen of the white machine thread.

The middle section has a series of flowers which we focused on the shading of them amongst the raised scrolls and braid work.

Down the bottom we have the lamb of god: “Behold the Lamb of God who takes away the sin of the world.” John 1:29. For his imagery we wanted to emulate a similar texture to that of the dove but with a more ‘wooley’ nature.

Each section of the embroidery has to be tidyed and finished by hand which you may be able to see from some of the earlier photos where the design is still on the machine, the stitching looks a bit rougher than the polished finish we were going for.

We also added some crystals and small hamd details at the end which added those final details to make it sing.

But even when we were done with it, that was not the end of its journey as it was delivered to the tailors who made it into the chasuble itself.

Re-interpretting originally hand embroidered designs in machine embroidery can be quite challenging to give it a style of its own and not to look like a lesser version of the hand embroidered piece. We aim not to replicate it, but to reimagine it.

Hawthorne & Heaney on Roses

March 22, 2019 by Natasha Searls-Punter

By compairson to last week’s post and the scale of the embroideries that we produced for the patches, this little job may seem insignificant. However we can’t help but get excited about pieces like this whether we are producing 2 pieces or 200 of them in the end.

We were approached and asked to use this tudor rose image to create a pair of freestanding embroidered embelums to go onto a bespoke cape which one of our tailors was working on. By adding raisings into the piece we were able to give the piece some body despite the fact that they are not onto a fabric base.

You can see from the scale of the hand just how little they really are.

Here they are in situ where they will get to live against this gorgeous velvet collar. Aren’t they just so cute?!?

Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Dior: Designer of Dreams

February 28, 2019 by Natasha Searls-Punter

If your instagram feed is anything like ours then you will not have failed to notice the hugh amount of attention that the Dior: Designer of Dreams exhibition is getting at the V & A Museum at the moment. Following its opening on the 2nd February, the exhibition which is held in the museum’s new Sainsbury wing, it has received an unprescedented amount of visitors.

The exhibition is currently sold out, with tickets being drip released around the 15th of each month and a few kept back each day on a first come first served basis. Members of the V&A however can still visit at their leisure and Hawthorne and Heaney were lucky enough to visit the exhibition on members night in order to bring you our insight.

The London exhibition has a much greater focus on the individual designers of the House of Dior so if you had already seen it at Musee Des Arts Decoratifs in Paris, then this version brings a different angle. Split into a series of sections, this part of the exhibition really gives you a sense of what each creative director has brought to the house. Furthermore it also highlights some of the key aspects of Dior as a fashion house, which holds all the designs together over the years. Identifying these values allows them to keep delivering pieces which are recognisably ‘Dior’.

Each rooms has its own sense of the wow factor with the paper cut flowers room, displaying some of the more romantic pieces amongst the flowers which were dripping from the ceiling. The center piece of which is this gown embellished with hundreds of tiny cut feathers.

We can not cover this exhibition without mentioning the toile room. Probably the simplist room with its ehite cubes, it really brings home the process of producing couture garments and the work that goes into them. It is lovely to look around and recognise some of the dresses you have already seen the final versions of, in their developmental form. As well as taking the time to watch the series of videos they have on display amongst the toiles which show the making process of other Dior producs such as shoes and jewellery from their specialist makers.

Some of the toiles have notes and annotations left on them which highlight the complexity of the pattern cutting when all the other details are stripped away in white.

From an embroiderers perpective, there is plenty to see and appreciate in this exhibition. The variety of styles and techniques is huge so whilst all the pieces may not necessarily be your taste, you can not help but be humbled by the skill.

Goldwork, raffia, feathers and beads all feature in this Galliano piece created for Dior by Lesage.

An interesting use of mesh appliques create the beatle wing/ petal effect amongst the sequins on this gown from the 1950’s.

Where else would you get the chance to get this up close and personal with dresses like this one, worn by Charlize Theron in the ‘J’adore’ adverts?

It is here that you can see that the sequins are tamboured onto the tuelle by hand with their joining stitches adding to the texture of the piece.

Some of the more contemporary pieces provide a different perspective on ‘les petite mains’ (the little hands; referring to the skilled makers that create the designers vision) that we get to see a modern application of traditonal skills such as the use of beads and velvet in this a line evening gown.

Of course, there are also the iconic, historical pieces that you have probably glimpst before, like this gown worn by Princess Margaret for her 21st Birthday photoshoot.

If you find the opportunity, then this exhibition is a absolute must see for fashion, design and embroidery fans everywhere. Follow the link for all the booking details.

All photos courtesy of Natasha Searls-Punter

Dior: Designer of Dreams

The Victoria and Albert Museum, London

On now until 14th July 2019

Hawthorne & Heaney for Asceno London

February 20, 2019 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Embroidered monograms are a lovely touch to add to a luxuirious item and London based sleepwear brand ‘Asceno’ are for sure the experts in this.

For some time now, we have been working with Asceno to add that personal touch to your garments. Here are a few examples of some of the pieces that we have produced

Fancy getting your initials on some beautiful silk pyjamas? Head over to their website to peruse all their lovely items and options that you can have or check out their instagram for sleepwear inspiration.

All Images courtesy of @ascenolondon