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Film, TV & Theatre

Hawthorne & Heaney for FKA Twigs

July 31, 2019 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Hawthorne & Heaney for FKA Twigs London Hand Embroidery

It has been three years since FKA Twigs has given a live performance so when she announced her return to music with new songs and the ‘Magdalene’ tour, it was a safe bet that it was going to be epic. From all accounts, she has not disappoint as many people have been describing  as ‘a masterpiece’ (anothermag.com) ‘feels at times more like an avant-garde dance piece than a pop show’ (NME).

Hawthorne & Heaney for FKA Twigs London Hand Embroidery

Unsurprisingly, when superstar stylists Ed Kay and Matthew Josephs contatcted us, we jumped at the chance to work on the embroidery for the tour costumes. We produced a series of 5 pieces which formed a part of this visual treat and are delighted with how they turned out!Hawthorne & Heaney for FKA Twigs London Hand EmbroideryBandana and head scarf with leopard print sleeved corset

Hawthorne & Heaney for FKA Twigs London Hand Embroidery

Leopard print sleeved corset

Hawthorne & Heaney for FKA Twigs London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for FKA Twigs London Hand Embroidery

 

Hawthorne & Heaney for FKA Twigs London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for FKA Twigs London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for FKA Twigs London Hand EmbroideryMonogram silver corset

Hawthorne & Heaney for FKA Twigs London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for FKA Twigs London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for FKA Twigs London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for FKA Twigs London Hand EmbroideryHawthorne & Heaney for FKA Twigs London Hand Embroidery

Filed Under: Art, Embroidery, Fashion, Film, TV & Theatre Tagged With: art, costume, costume design, ed kay, fka twigs, Hawthorne and Heaney, London, magdalene, matthew josephs, music, pop, stylist, theatrre

Hawthorne & Heaney visits the Night & Day Exhibition

November 29, 2018 by Intern

Hawthorne & Heaney visits the Night & Day Exhibition London Hand EmbroideryBeautiful sequined gown, early to mid-1930s. Sequins became popular in the 1920s, inspired by the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb. (1922)

The 1930s followed the decade of the roaring 20’s, with the Wall Street crash in 1929, the years that followed saw a great deal of change for Britain and America. With the 1930s, came the beginning of WWII, the end of the Jazz Age and a dramatic change in fashion in accordance with the economic and political transformations of Western society.

Hawthorne & Heaney visits the Night & Day Exhibition London Hand EmbroideryEvening Gown and Capelet, early to mid 1930s, satin. Black and white was considered a very chic colour combination in the 1930s, promoted by designer Elsa Schiaparelli. (1890-1973)

This exquisite exhibition is based around a single collection (courtesy of Cleo and Mark Butterfield) consisting of 1930s daywear and eveningwear. The exhibition began with an array of classic dresses, would have been at the height of fashion in the 30s. The impact of the Art Deco movement (which took its name from the international Arts Décoratif et Industriels Modernes held in Paris in 1925) on fashion in the 30s was profound; it was characterised by highly stylised natural and geometric forms. Something that struck us as soon as we walked in was how much the fabrics used to construct the garments were angled towards the act of wearing; specific fabrics such as satin and crepe were used to glisten in the lights of a nightclub – the wonderful art of using materials for their glamorous properties!

Hawthorne & Heaney visits the Night & Day Exhibition London Hand EmbroideryEvening Gown, early 1930s, Satin. Wonderful ruffled open back gown with gathered bow motif.

Glamorous. Chic. Timeless. Three words that instantly spring to mind when a vision of floor length satin and crepe gowns appeared like a mirage through the walls of the fashion and textile museum. These liquid satin, bias cut gowns – pioneered by Madeleine Vionnet – ooze sophistication and sensual night-time glamour. On the dance floor of the 1930s, everyone was equal; all class, economic and racial differences were left on the side lines.

Hawthorne & Heaney visits the Night & Day Exhibition London Hand EmbroideryEvening gown, early to mid-1930s, satin. A salmon-pink bias cut gown with beaded swirl motif. The caplet sleeves emphesise the feminine fluidity of the gown.

Cinema became part of everyday life in the interwar years; Cinema buildings popped up all over the country; housewives would be able to view a matinee screening and still be home in time for the children! The silver screen was an immense factor in the glamorisation of evening wear fashion in the 1930s and the rise of ready to wear garments; cheaper fabrics such as lamé were favoured over traditional embroidery, which was not quite as decadent but almost as lustrous.Hawthorne & Heaney visits the Night & Day Exhibition London Hand EmbroideryEvening gown, early 1930s, satin. The glamorous style was reinforced by Hollywood during a decade of luxurious films that provided the much needed escapism from the realities of daily life.

In the room called ‘Whistle! While you work’ it was clear that the major shift in working class women becoming mass consumers was aided by media outlets such as magazines, it was explained how this shift has been an important factor in how we shop today. The popularisation of department stores and the philosophy of ‘make do and mend’ in the austerity of The Depression also led to a much more accessible ‘Ready To Wear’ trend rising. This revolution in ready to wear clothing could be seen of as a factor in our current fast-fashion crisis.

Hawthorne & Heaney visits the Night & Day Exhibition London Hand EmbroideryEvening gown and jacket, mid 1930s. Heavy embroidery of the previous decade were discarded and replaced with cheaper fabrics such as lamé.

The 1930s gave way to the act of shopping (usually in department stores) and window-shopping becoming part of popular culture. The advancement of technology and women in the workplace (pre marriage, of course, due to the ‘marriage bar’ forcing women to resign from their jobs when wed) meant that fabrics could now be produced on a much larger and therefore cheaper scale.

Hawthorne & Heaney visits the Night & Day Exhibition London Hand EmbroideryThe 1930s were a golden age for the art of the portrait photograph. On show was a vast selection of portraits from 3 leading studio photographers; Dorothy Wilding, Madame Yevonde and Paul Tanqueray.

The finale of the exhibition wowed us with a patriotic display of all things red, white and blue to commemorate the coronation of George VI. An interesting note which helped us imagine the atmosphere of the day was added in the exhibition guide: ‘Hotels were full to the seams and many people who wanted to catch a glimpse of the royal coach resorted to sleeping on pavements and in the parks, creating camps and latrines, which author Virginia Woolf likened to scenes of the Crimea.’

Hawthorne & Heaney visits the Night & Day Exhibition London Hand EmbroiderySome Day My Prince … Will Come! A section of the exhibition celebrating the coronation of King George VI on 12 May 1937; all things blue, red and white lined the streets of Britain.

The exhibition was a delightful insight in to all things 30s, from the glitzy gowns of the dancehall floors to the realities of women being barred from the workplace: a truly comprehensive experience!

Hawthorne & Heaney visits the Night & Day Exhibition London Hand EmbroideryDress, late 1930s, crepe. Blue was a popular colour of 1937 as it was considered patriotic. ‘Marlborough blue’, in partocular featured heavily in this year and was named after the royal palace.

By Jessica Strain. All photos by Jessica Strain.

Exhibition details:

Night & Day: 1930’s Fashion and Photographs

Fashion and Textile Museum

83 Bermondsey Street, London SE1 3XF

Open Tuesdays to Saturdays, 11am–6pm

Thursdays until 8pm

Sundays, 11am–5pm

12 October 2018 – 20 January 2019

£9.90 adults / £8.80 concessions / £7 students

Children under 12 are free

 

Filed Under: Art, Embroidery, Fashion, Film, TV & Theatre, London Tagged With: dresses, embellishment, embroidery, eveningwear, exhibition, fashion and textile museum, glamour, gowns, London, Night and Day:1930's fashion and photographs, photography, sophistication

Hawthorne & Heaney for Diana: Designing a Princess BBC Documentary

March 23, 2017 by Hasina Akther

2017 sees the 20th anniversary of the tragic death of our beloved Diana, Princess of Wales. To mark the anniversary, BBC Two has made a documentary called ‘Diana: Designing a Princess’ to celebrate the Princesses sense of style and fashion. Hawthorne and Heaney are excited and grateful to say we played a small part in this by embroidering section titles for the documentary.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Diana: Designing a Princess BBC Documentary London Hand Embroidery

As one of the most famous women on the planet, this programme traces the evolution of the Princess’s style, ‘from the demure, romantic outfits of her first public appearances’.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Diana: Designing a Princess BBC Documentary London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for Diana: Designing a Princess BBC Documentary London Hand Embroidery

To her playing the role of a ‘fairy tale princess’

Hawthorne & Heaney for Diana: Designing a Princess BBC Documentary London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney for Diana: Designing a Princess BBC Documentary London Hand Embroidery

She captured the hearts of the world and elevated to the ‘glamour, elegance and confidence of her later life’.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Diana: Designing a Princess BBC Documentary London Hand Embroidery

Princess Diana Dancing with John Travolta on her visit to America at President Reagan’s White House Gala in 1985.

The BBC2 documentary is presented by Brenda Emmanus, BBC’s Art, Culture and Entertainment correspondent and was produced in collaboration with the Historic Royal Places. Brenda looks at some of Diana’s ‘most celebrated and exquisite dresses’, which have been brought together for a new exhibition at Kensington Palace – open from 24th February 2017 and runs until March 2018.

Brenda then visits the Conservation Studio at Hampton Court Palace as the dresses are prepared for display.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Diana: Designing a Princess BBC Documentary London Hand Embroidery

She hears from historians, cultural commentators and the designers who dressed Diana, including Elizabeth Emanuel, Victor Edelstein and David Sassoon. Exhibition curator Eleri Lynn says that Diana, was ‘an excellent silent communicator through her clothes’ and this can be noted in the so called ‘Revenge Dress’ she unveiled on the night Prince Charles admitted adultery.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Diana: Designing a Princess BBC Documentary London Hand Embroidery

Diana broke away from the traditional image of royal outfits and created her own image as a modern princess.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Diana: Designing a Princess BBC Documentary London Hand Embroidery

This year, the Princess would have turned 56, which seems unimaginable and this exhibition and documentary is a perfect way to understand Diana’s fashion choices and to celebrate Diana.

The documentary is still available to watch on BBC TWO.

 

References:

Historical Royal Places – http://www.hrp.org.uk/kensington-palace/visit-us/top-things-to-see-and-do/diana-her-fashion-story/#gs.TxGK4KA

History of Royal Women – http://www.historyofroyalwomen.com/diana-princess-of-wales/diana-princess-waless-fashion-legacy-celebrated-kensington-palace/

The Telegraph – http://www.telegraph.co.uk/tv/2017/02/25/diana-designing-princess-provokes-mixed-emotions-review/

Marie Claire – http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/fashion/princess-diana-s-dresses-the-truth-behind-her-most-famous-fashion-moments-116675

Vanity Fair – http://www.vanityfair.com/style/2016/09/john-travolta-princess-diana-dance-memory

 

Filed Under: Embroidery, Fashion, Film, TV & Theatre Tagged With: 20 years, BBC Two, Brenda Emmanus, Confident, Crown, David Sassoon, Designing a Princess, Diana, Diana Spencer, Documentary, elegance, Eleri Lynn, Elizabeth Emanuel, english rose, exhibition, Fairy Tale Princess, fashion, Hampton Court Palace, Historical Royal Places, history, HRH, John Travolta, Kensington Palace, Lady Diana, President Reagan, President Reagan’s White House Gala in 1985., Prince Charles, Princess, Revenge dress, romantic outfits, Royal family, Shy, Shy Di, style, The Telegraph, Tragic death, Victor Edelstein, White House Gala, william and kate

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane A/W 2017

February 22, 2017 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane A/W 2017 London Hand Embroidery

On Friday night, Hawthorne & Heaney were a few of the audience members to watch the the fashion show of Joshua Kane’s A/W 2017 collection. Held at the London Palladium, it was a grand affair with 2250 people eagerly watching as Kane wanted to be able to share the experience with his fans as well as the high fashion crowd. Therefore, tickets were available for anyone to buy, attend and enjoy.

Entitled, ‘Journey’ the brand did not disappoint with an amazing set of intricate lattice work depicting a early 20th century tube station, newly built and creating a social microcosm of it’s own as the classes mingle. On this we were introduced to the narative with a couple of models interacting briefly before the main body of the show got started.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane A/W 2017 London Hand EmbroideryHawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane A/W 2017 London Hand Embroidery Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane A/W 2017 London Hand Embroidery

The shows itself was crisp, sharp and well polished as is only fitting for a Joshua Kane collection. Not only was this show unusual to be shared with the wider audience in this way, but was also Kane’s first show that was an equal split of mens and womenswear. The line up finished with the three looks which Hawthorne & Heaney produced embroidered pieces for, in the form of a horse head, with chess board, military and heraldic influences.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane A/W 2017 London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane A/W 2017 London Hand Embroidery

View this post on Instagram

Gold work embroidery horses… the horse represents the #joshuakanejourney we are on. Featured on my AW17 Runway production at the London Palladium. Special thanks to @hawthorneheaney

A post shared by Joshua Kane (@joshuakanebespoke) on Feb 20, 2017 at 12:09pm PST

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane A/W 2017 London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane A/W 2017 London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane A/W 2017 London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane A/W 2017 London Hand Embroidery

View this post on Instagram

Great to see some of our embroidery on the runway this evening @hawthorneheaney #joshuakanejourney #embroidery #lfw

A post shared by Tasha Searls-Punter (@tashasearlspunter) on Feb 17, 2017 at 1:39pm PST

The show finished with a moving performance by the two models/dancers that we were introduced to at the start.

View this post on Instagram

A beautiful presentation of tailoring from last nights fashion show #joshuakanejourney #ballet #suits

A post shared by Tasha Searls-Punter (@tashasearlspunter) on Feb 18, 2017 at 4:20am PST

As always it was lovely to be involved in an exciting project like this, particulally with such as beautiful outcome and was wonderful to see them on their debut in person. If you would like to seemore of the collection follow the link here. We are looking forward to what they produce for next season already!

 

 

 

 

Filed Under: Embroidery, Fashion, Film, TV & Theatre, London, Tailoring Tagged With: autumn winter 2017, aw17, bespoke, custom, embellishment, embroidery, equine, fashion, gold, Hawthorne & Heaney, horse, joshua Kane, machine embroidery, menswear, palladium, show, stitching, Tailoring, womenswear

Hawthorne & Heaney on Dr Strange in Action

August 9, 2016 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Hawthorne & Heaney on Dr Strange in Action London Hand Embroidery

Following on from our previous release of the work we have been doing for the new Marvel blockbuster; Dr Strange, some new action photos have surfaced of the filming in Manhattan.

Hawthorne & Heaney on Dr Strange in Action London Hand Embroidery

It is wonderful to see the costumes as they move as well as seeing the vermicelli embroidery on the red cape against the cross stitch CAD down the front of the robes.

Hawthorne & Heaney on Dr Strange in Action London Hand Embroidery

Hawthorne & Heaney on Dr Strange in Action London Hand Embroidery

These are the first shots of the fully constructed Baron Mordo costume we have seen which is really exciting to see the embroidered pieces in the context of the rest of the costume.

Hawthorne & Heaney on Dr Strange in Action London Hand Embroidery

We just cant wait to see the whole movie now!

Filed Under: Embroidery, Film, TV & Theatre Tagged With: action, Baron Mordo, benedict cumberpatch, Chiwetel Ejiofor, costume, Dr. Strange, film, filming, manhattan, marvel

Hawthorne & Heaney for Suicide Squad with Chaos Fashion

August 4, 2016 by Natasha Searls-Punter

The New Suicide Squad Movie has been long awaited, but last night was the European Premier in London’s Leicester Square. Hawthorne & Heaney were delighted to be asked to do the embroidery work for an outfit for the ladies of the cast for one of their looks. Chaos Fashion designed and produced these beautiful silk satin tracksuits for Cara Delevingne and Margot Robbie wear to the after party.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Suicide Squad with Chaos Fashion London Hand Embroidery

Each tracksuit was personalised with the girls names on the front in gold against the suit’s navy.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Suicide Squad with Chaos Fashion London Hand Embroidery

The back sported, the films ‘SKWAD’ and ‘X’.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Suicide Squad with Chaos Fashion London Hand Embroidery

The machine embroidery featured a slight fade within the fill which helps to give it it’s shadowed effect.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Suicide Squad with Chaos Fashion London Hand EmbroideryIt was great fun to be part of this super fast project with Chaos’s designers, Charlotte Stockdale & Katie Lyall and it is great to see the finished items being worn so well. To see more picture from the evening, follow the link here.

Filed Under: Embroidery, Fashion, Film, TV & Theatre, London Tagged With: afterparty, bespoke, cad, cara delevingne, chaos fashion, embroidery, fashion, fill, film, leicester square, London, machine embroidery, margot robbie, movie, premier, Silk, skwad, suicide squad, tracksuits

Hawthorne & Heaney for Paul Hollywood

November 19, 2015 by Natasha Searls-Punter

Last week Hawthorne and Heaney had the privilege of embroidering some chefs whites, said to be for none other that the ‘Bake Off King’ himself! Here are some photos of the finished piece.

Hawthorne & Heaney for Paul Hollywood London Hand Embroidery

We look forward to seeing Paul Hollywood wearing his personalised whites on television, hopefully very soon!

Hawthorne & Heaney for Paul Hollywood London Hand Embroidery

Filed Under: Embroidery, Film, TV & Theatre, London Tagged With: bake off, Embroidery London, Hawthorne & Heaney, hollywood, London, machine embroidery, Monogram, monogramming, paul, paul hollywood, personalisation, Personalised, stitching

Hawthorne & Heaney watches Modern Times: Welcome to Mayfair

February 25, 2015 by Natasha Searls-Punter

It’s only every now and then that a programme comes on to television that really gets us excited, but we couldn’t help but be curious to see what the producers at the BBC would make of our little patch of London, Mayfair. On the 15th Feb, Modern Times: Welcome to Mayfair aired on BBC2 showing the social diversity that exists in Mayfair and the variety of businesses and lives it sustains. So it was with baited breath that we watched to see some of our friends and colleagues as they featured in the show as ‘the craftspeople who keep the wealthy in their finery’.

Hawthorne & Heaney watches Modern Times: Welcome to Mayfair  London Hand Embroidery

GJ Cleverley’s the Shoe maker made a significant appearance, demonstration that people are still making bespoke items in the heart of Mayfair, in the workshop above the shop, Burlington Arcade. They make all sort of bespoke shoes including these slippers which feature some of our Goldwork embroidery.

Hawthorne & Heaney watches Modern Times: Welcome to Mayfair  London Hand Embroidery

There was also an addition from Keith Levett of Henry Poole who does their Livery Tailoring

Hawthorne & Heaney watches Modern Times: Welcome to Mayfair  London Hand EmbroideryYou might even catch a glimpse of our Director, Claire in the artisan’s meeting if you have a keen eye. For us, it is great to see the focus being given to the independent businesses and championing the craftsman’s trades. It is clear to see from talking to any crafts person that we are all passionate about keeping our craft alive and growing.

 

Filed Under: Embroidery, Film, TV & Theatre, London Tagged With: Artisan, Barrett, BBC, Claire, cleverley's, craft, embroidery, film, George Cleverley, goldwork, Hawthorne & Heaney, henry poole, Keith Levett, livery, Makers of Mayfair, making, Modern Times, Shoemaking, Slippers, Tailoring, TV, Welcome to Mayfair

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