Hawthorne & Heaney goes to London Craft Week

What were you doing last week? Specifically 9-13 May. Did you manage to catch London Craft Week? Well, it’s alright if you missed it, because we are here to share with you what we did and learned!

This festival that spans across London celebrates British and international creativity. Covering a vast range of disciplines, it brought together over 200 established and emerging makers, designers, brands and galleries from around the world.

We started our journey in the heart of English bespoke tailoring- Savile Row. The Row that is entrenched deep in history, famous worldwide, houses over 100 craftsman in more than a dozen bespoke tailoring business. It is a community that not only produces the esteemed English luxurious product but is active in training new craftsman. We had the chance to attend an hour-long masterclass pattern cutting at Henry Poole & Co.  In the brief hour, taught by one of the cutters about dinner jackets, he engaged us on the construction of the trouser pattern. First, measurement was taken off a gentleman in the room, then he moved onto crafting the pattern. Primarily using the Centre Front Centre Back cutting system, where scales and mathematics are used to give proportions so as to draft for the body of the customer.

 

Dinner Suit Trouser Pattern Cutting Process | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

 

Henry Poole & Co Ltd Suits | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

After the hour, we gained a heightened respect for the craft of tailoring. Behind one jacket, it involves roughly 10 artisans, who engage in the making of the various sections of the garment. They perfect the moulding and shaping of the fabric so that it sits perfectly on the body. Bespoke tailoring suits are certainly a class of their own in both elegance and comfort.

Next, we ventured down to Sloane Square, to discover Maria Svarbova’s photography series that was the inspiration behind Delpozo Spring Summer 2018 ‘Musicalia’ collection. We were blown away by the beautiful photographs, that has this retro-futuristic. The artist describes the series as having a sense of ‘artificial detachment’, although set in a retro environment, ‘the pictures somehow evoke a futuristic feeling as well, as if they were taken somewhere completely alien.’, the moment is frozen in time. In addition, the symmetrical composition enhances the ethereal quality.

Image: Maria Svarbova

Looking at the collection alongside the photographs, there is much resemblance in the colour palette. Creative director, Josep Font skillfully translated the swimming pool blue that ripples throughout the photographs, into the choice of the fabric and embroidery. Complimenting them with pastel shades of yellow, pink, and definitely the shocking red, there is a sense of a dreamlike atmosphere.

 

Delpozo embroidery contrasted with Maria Svarbova’s photographs

 

Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

 

Delpozo embroidery contrasted with Maria Svarbova’s photographs

 

In addition, the geometric lines and stillness of the pool, reminds us of the intimate atmosphere at the atelier; cool, architectural and beautiful, a style synonym with the brand.

Lastly, we headed to the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize at the Design Museum, that will be held till 17 June. This exhibition best summarises craft and artistic endeavours all over the world. Exhibiting a range of international works that stretch across practices, such as ceramics, papercraft, woodwork to jewellery. Entering the exhibition, visitors are provided with an audio guide, that gives a detailed explanations about the works, aiding further appreciation and understanding of the craft in view.

One theme that ran throughout all the works exhibited is that there are continued efforts made to revive traditional techniques alongside pushing the boundaries of the skill. An example is a winning piece by Jennifer Lee, who mixed metallic oxides into clay to create colour, a technique that she discovered. Complimenting this avant-garde colouring technique, with an ancient practice of pinching and coiling clay, it resulted in the creation of a beautiful speckled surface. The varying gradient of bands that encircle the piece, resembles time frozen between traditional and contemporary.

Jennifer Lee (Winning Prize) Pale, Shadowed Speckled Traces, Fading Elipse, Bronze Specks, Tilted Shelf, 2017 | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

Another work, that we truly appreciate is by Takuro Kuwata’s Tea Bowl. Unlike traditional potters, who often aims to hide any cracks in their work, Kuwata defies that norm. He enhances the impression of chaos, that is natural to the unpredictable nature of ceramics, by making it the feature point of his work. By combining porcelain with platinum and steel, he challenges the possibility of materials. The melted and crack surface of the work is complemented with the saturated green patina, that makes the work contemporary and elegant.

Takuro Kuwata, Tea Bowl, 2017 | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

 

Embroidery is also celebrated at this exhibition! Richard McVetis, who is captivated by the meditative nature of the process, draws with needle and thread. He embroidered sixty cubes over the duration of sixty hours, materialising time into something tactile and visual.

 

Richard McVetis , Variations of a Stitched Cube,2017 | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

 

Richard McVetis , Variations of a Stitched Cube,2017 | Image: Hawthorne & Heaney

 

Perched on 60 beams, the 60 cubes remind me of the globe of islands, but in a square. It is a rather fun way of curating the world and plays on the idea that the world is not round but square.

London Craft Week is truly a celebration of hands that spans multiple disciplines. It makes us cherish and esteem the time and energy that goes into crafting beautiful objects. Unlike mass produced items that are often regarded as disposable, the work of the hand interweaves personal stories and beauty into everything made. In this age of mass consumption and disposal, we are glad that there is a renaissance in the appreciation of creativity and craft worldwide. We at Hawthorne & Heaney, are definitely standing behind that resurgence and hope to safeguard the shared heritage of craft.

Hawthorne & Heaney lends a helping hand

Its that time of year again, fashion and textile graduates will know what we mean.

Your design tutor who has finally signed off on your incredibly ambitious embroidery design for your final collection / portfolio.  They love it and have uttered the immortal words “but I want to see more”.

After a few brief moments of relief the creeping panic begins to set in.  A look over the calendar confirms it.  There is just not enough time for one person to achieve all this for deadline !

Don’t worry we are here to help !!  Hawthorne & Heaney specialise in fast turnaround and as a larger percentage of our work is made in London ordering, design changes and pick up/drop off are streamlines to cut days of standard lead times.

 

Hawthorne & Heaney have helped many students over the years at graduate level including Claire Barrow and Ashley Williams !

Give us a call 020 7637 5736 or drop us an email info@embroidery.london

Hawthorne & Heaney for Ong Oaj Pairam

With London Fashion Week well and truely underway, we thought we would share with you a little piece of Hawthorne & Heaney embroidery that made its way onto the catwalk. We worked with the Brighton based designer Ong Oaj Pairam on his AW2016 collection to produce a heavily encrusted, lace and crystal bodice.

Screen Shot 2016-02-22 at 09.01.58

It was a pretty quick turn around so we used all the tools at our disposal when we were developing the techniqies. The collection has a dark fairytale/ Victorian lost love theme which we worked into the designs. Using our CAD embroidery machine we developed lace like flower and leaf designs to build up a heavy base and compliment the sheen of the duchess satin on which they would be placed.

IMG_2404Along side this we experiemented with a variety of different sequin techniques for creating floral effects

IMG_2405-2

Once this was all decided on then all there was left to do was to get stitching

IMG_2546 IMG_2545

We were really pleased with the effect, it felt very heavy to hold but wonderfully textured. When teamed with the jaquard trousers and sheer shirt from the rest of Pairam’s collection it really comes to life.

Screen Shot 2016-02-22 at 09.00.02

We hope you enjoy looking at this piece as much as we enjoyed working on it. Check in again with us to see what else we have been working on recently…

If you would like to see more from Ong Oaj Pairam, please visit his website

Hawthorne & Heaney for Valentines Day

When it comes to buying Valentines day gifts for your better half, it can be hard not to slip into the easy options. Flowers, chocolates, jewellery, watches…

At Hawthorne & Heaney, we offer high quality monogramming services, the perfect way to make your gift special! Pyjamas, handkerchiefs and blankets are great gifts to be personalised with initials, words or even dates, to remind them of a special day.

Bespoke-embroidery-onto-jacket

What better way to say ‘I love you’ this Valentines day than with a personalised gift for that special someone?

3017-2

Treat your loved one to some bespoke embroidery, be it a set of initials to make your gift original and personal to them, or something small that says those all important words for you!

3006-123003-6

We offer both hand monogramming and machine monogramming services in every colour you can imagine! What could be a more thoughtful gift this valentines day? They deserve it!

Hawthorne & Heaney Experiments with Embroidered Interiors

Hawthorne & Heaney have been working on an interior sample collection, using fabrics from our friends and collegues, Dugdale Bros & Co Cloth Merchants.

Founded in 1896, Dugdale’s are a British Heritage brand who are based in Huddersfield, Yorkshire has a very rich weaving industry, with its soft water providing perfect conditions to create the finest woven cloth.

The cloth merchants are very passionate about their British roots, and pride themselves on providing high quality cloth to tailors and designers alike.

Interior Embroideryimage 2image 3

Our collection has been inspired by Dugdale Bros luxury cloth and focuses on integrating embroidery into woven fabrics, and consists mainly of CAD stitching. Using this combination of woollen and velvet has given the collection a unique quality, and allows similar designs to have entirely different effects.

IMG_4797image 6

We have taken a lot of our influences from the British Countryside, providing the collection with a rustic feel which is echoed in the combination of rough textures and earthy colours. The main themes include phesant feathers, antlers and wood grain which can be seen on the mood board.

IMG_4793

IMG_4811

We continue to develop and add to this collection so check in with our social media for more updates…

 

Monogramming at Brooks Brothers

On Saturday the 10th and Monday the 12th of October, Hawthorne & Heaney were offering a free monogramming service for customers at Brooks Brothers.

IMG_3087

Brooks Brothers was founded by Henry Sands brooks in 1818 America, and has since set up in other countries including the UK.

There was a range of colours available, and a selection of styles to chose from.

IMG_3088

 

These are some of the examples of what was being demonstrated at the London Brooks Brothers shop.

IMG_3090

If you would like to have anything embrodiered or are thinking about holding an event of your own and would like us to be involved, please get in touch.

 

Hawthorne & Heaney at the Guess Denim Promotion

On October the 8th, Hawthorne and Heaney set up a monogramming service in Guess, Regent street for their denim promotion event with Glamour Magazine.

Alongside monogramming, the event also offered tutorials on denim customisation, and a photo booth.

IMG_1982

The monogramming was free of charge with any denim purchase. Jeans were the most popular item to embroider, which were offered in three different postpositions. This one in particular looked very smart.

image1 (3)

Monogramming is a great way to personalise a pair of jeans, and is becoming more popular amongst well known high end and high street brands. The colours offered on the night were either red, or white to match the stores branding, and looked very smart in the classic London font.

 

JAMES LONG

James Long jacket embroidery by Hawthorne & Heaney

For their last (certainly not least) offering for LFW AW12/13 the designers at Hawthorne & Heaney had the pleasure of working with James Long.

One jacket topped with cornely chain stitch and military plate came out mid show giving us a taster of the finale which was a fully embroidered jacket covered in military plate, cloth of gold and solid gold smooth and rough purl.

The effect was incredible and H&H were privileged to work with a designer with the skill to use such ancient, intricate techniques with such a successful, modern application.

Thank you to GQ for the images !

PPQ AW 12/13

Goldwork embroidered Leopard Print for PPQ

For their first show of the season Hawthorne & Heaney had the pleasure of working with Amy Molyneaux and the design team at PPQ.  Working within one of their oldest specialties they produced antiqued military gold work Ps & Qs for the conceptual leopard print designed for PPQs ‘new, more sophisticated look’.    The embroidery technique beautifully complimented Molyneaux’s inspiration for the collection of ‘the apocalyptic romance of winter’ adding more to the story written by their most recent collection “Black Out”.
Hawthorne & Heaney’s favourites included the gold work embroidered shoes and the Bram Stoker esque hood embellished with antique military gold work and Swarovki rondels.

OUR SCHOOL

London Embroidery School is an embroidery School in Islington running as part of  Hawthorne & Heaney.  They run embroidery  classes monthly in various techniques and sell specialist materials and equipment online.  They believe in the art of hand embroidery and believe that these skills and equipment to anyone who has the will and the patience to learn.  Our skilled tutors are all RSN trained, so you can learn at a professional level in a comfortable central london location.

London Embroidery School monogramming class

We are located 5 minutes from the station at Highbury & Islington and are very convenient for the buss, overground and tube.

Please email info@londonembroideryschool.com with any enquiries.