Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane Fantasy

Fashion week is here! We have had the absolute pleasure of working with the one the only Joshua Kane for his Spring Summer 2018 Collection ‘Fantasy’. It is always a delight to see our work come to life on the catwalk, and out there for the world to see!

A close up to show the 3D effect of the tailor,

We are loving the attention to detail, The Tailor on the shoes

 

 

 

 

My personal favourite is this incredible leather jacket! Raised embroidered sleeves. This really is a dream!

It is safe to say that we are living the fantasy here at Hawthorne and Heaney

 

Check out the whole collection here Follow Joshua Kane on Instagram, we cannot wait to see what he comes up with next season!

 

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane A/W 2017

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On Friday night, Hawthorne & Heaney were a few of the audience members to watch the the fashion show of Joshua Kane’s A/W 2017 collection. Held at the London Palladium, it was a grand affair with 2250 people eagerly watching as Kane wanted to be able to share the experience with his fans as well as the high fashion crowd. Therefore, tickets were available for anyone to buy, attend and enjoy.

Entitled, ‘Journey’ the brand did not disappoint with an amazing set of intricate lattice work depicting a early 20th century tube station, newly built and creating a social microcosm of it’s own as the classes mingle. On this we were introduced to the narative with a couple of models interacting briefly before the main body of the show got started.

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The shows itself was crisp, sharp and well polished as is only fitting for a Joshua Kane collection. Not only was this show unusual to be shared with the wider audience in this way, but was also Kane’s first show that was an equal split of mens and womenswear. The line up finished with the three looks which Hawthorne & Heaney produced embroidered pieces for, in the form of a horse head, with chess board, military and heraldic influences.

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Great to see some of my embroidery on the runway this evening @hawthorneheaney #joshuakanejourney #embroidery #lfw

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The show finished with a moving performance by the two models/dancers that we were introduced to at the start.

A beautiful presentation of tailoring from last nights fashion show #joshuakanejourney #ballet #suits

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As always it was lovely to be involved in an exciting project like this, particulally with such as beautiful outcome and was wonderful to see them on their debut in person. If you would like to seemore of the collection follow the link here. We are looking forward to what they produce for next season already!

 

 

 

 

Hawthorne & Heaney on Joshua Kane SS17

josh kane roses 1Our regular readers will be familiar with the long standing creative relationship that Hawthorne & Heaney have with Joshua Kane and his SS17 collection was no exception. This season we produced a series of tie pin/brooch roses which embellished a large proportion of the collection.

josh kane roses 2 The show itself was sharp but beautiful as is Kane’s house style with a sumptuous 3D fabric rose on the lapels. josh kane roses 4

The roses are available in Black Satin, Teal Velvet, Crushed Purple Velvet and Printed Black and White Silk. Below is a little taste of the looks from the runway. josh kane roses 5The roses are created by wrapping and twisting the fabric to manipulate it into the plush shape of a rose. josh kane roses 8

They fasten onto the lapel with a silver stiletto tie pin back .josh kane roses 6

They lend themselves well to both embellishing a dinner jacket or adding a sartorial touch to a more casual suit jacket. josh kane roses 7

Along with being worn on clothing, Kane has also shared the roses styled with some of his other accessories: josh kane roses 9

And here is the man himself sporting his own Crushed Purple Velvet Rose. josh kane roses 10We can not wait to see what they produce next season!

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane

For his SS16 collection, we worked with Joshua Kane  to create these lightening inspired detail to compliement the tailoring. We came across this great picture of Jack Guiness in one of the jackets with Ben Stiller, giving their best ‘blue steel’ looks and just had to share it with you!

 

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Here you can see some of the detail of the goldwork that goes unto the collar. The embroidery stands up from the fabric as it has been raised and each piece of bullion is cut to measure and hand applied to create this lux effect.

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And here the rest fo the jacket, I think you will agree, it is pretty special.

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Hawthorne & Heaney on Application of Traditional Goldwork

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It can be hard when you get excited and caught up in learning a new technique, but when it comes to applying your skills to a particular item, one often realises it is harder than first thought. We thought we would take our recent work for Joshua Kane and use it as a sort of case study for the use of goldwork in fashion.

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These pieces were inspired by lightening which give the goldwork a very crisp look whilst showing off the complexity of the goldwork. Often, goldwork is shown with some accents of silk work, however by keeping purely to the goldwork it makes it look very bold and fresh.

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Placement of pieces such as these is very important as they weigh a lot so the piece of the garment that they can be crafted into need to be very sturdy in itself and not be subject to too much movement when worn . This is why the collar and high waistband as shown above work well with this technique as they will not be agitated in these positions. As can be seen in the images, the positioning of the embroidery and the garment pieces are worked in careful consideration of each other.

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Along with the weight, the height of the embroidery has to be taken into consideration as the padding underneath, forces the goldwork to stand proud of the fabric. This can make for a really interesting design feature, as can be seen in this example, the shadows created by the height add to the depth and texture of the piece.

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With some careful manipulation, the use of traditional techniques can make a very refreshing to classic cuts which has so much possibility. In these pieces there is only 2 types of goldwork material used, which allows for a clean appreciation of the lines and design itself, allowing it to be an interesting addition to the overall look without over powering the garment as a whole.

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If you have an idea that you would like to see come to fruition or are interested in learning more about goldwork, get in touch with us at Hawthorne & Heaney or the London Embroidery School.

Hawthorne & Heaney does Joshua Kane SS16

 

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As London Collections Men, comes to an end we thought we would share our addition to the wonderful collections that have been on show over the last week. From the Joshua Kane Spring/ Summer 2016 Collection, we produced these exciting lightning waistband and collar. The images below demonstrate the detail that goes into them as they are constructed out of raised Gold cutwork edged in Pearle Purl. You can see the depth of the work though the shadow that is created by them.

 

IMG_8455 IMG_8454 IMG_8452 IMG_8373 IMG_8372It was a pleasure working on these interesting and innovative pieces, along with seeing all the other wonderful works that were presented at this years London Collections Men, we can’t wait for next season!