Hawthorne & Heaney reviews London Collections: Men

antonio bizarro applique

Looking at AW15 London Collections: Men it is clear that texture is a key theme for the season, being keenly explored through fur, wools, brocades and more. At Hawthorne & Heaney what has really caught our eye is the use of embroidery in menswear. It can sometimes be a hard balance to strike, with an area that is so closely associated with femininity but there were some well integrated pieces that go to show that embroidery for menswear can be just as beautiful.

james long aw15 lace applique james long aw15 lace applique 2

Antonio Bizarro and James Long took more of an appliqué approach to their embroidery with Bizarro applying large areas of intricately patterned brocade to his jacket using a contrasting satin stitch edge. James Long provided a touch of androgyny to his collection using chunky guipure inspired lace motifs to offset the sportswear cuts.

Kit neale aw15 badges

topman aw15 badge scarf

There was also an abundance of pop details such as these embroidered badges which were seen at both Kit Neale and Topman.  This slots cleanly in with the customisation trend that has been dominating our catwalks and long may it continue.

Until next season…

 

JAMES LONG

James Long jacket embroidery by Hawthorne & Heaney

For their last (certainly not least) offering for LFW AW12/13 the designers at Hawthorne & Heaney had the pleasure of working with James Long.

One jacket topped with cornely chain stitch and military plate came out mid show giving us a taster of the finale which was a fully embroidered jacket covered in military plate, cloth of gold and solid gold smooth and rough purl.

The effect was incredible and H&H were privileged to work with a designer with the skill to use such ancient, intricate techniques with such a successful, modern application.

Thank you to GQ for the images !