Hawthorne & Heaney for Young Designers

At this time of year we are lucky enough to get a sneak peak at some of the freshest fashion talent around as Students from all over contact us with their ideas for their final collections. This insight into the future of fashion is always so exciting to see and often pushes us beyond our usual style or way of approaching a project. This year we have been working with designers such as Mary Ashcroft, Naomi Bartling and Palmina Cerullo.

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mary ashcroft

Mary Ashcroft has a bold aesthetic, using machine embroidery also to add large strokes of texture to her piece emulating a paint brush. With this piece she brings together multiple textures of fabric as the embroidery act as the seam between Mac plastic, Velvet and Felt. This exposes the way the fabrics react differently to the introduction of the embroidery with the punched out nature of the plastic and the way the pile of the velvet peeks through the heavy stitching on the velvet areas.

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Naomi Bartling took a very different approach to the other graduates, using embroidery to bring together many different elements to built a multitude of colour texture and interest. This eclectic approach to her embroidery created some really eye catching pieces as we took apart existing hair pieces and corsages, and reassembled them. We also produced this moss covered piece for her, embellished with a range of 3D beaded motifs.

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Palmina Cerullo from the University for the Creative Arts went for a more traditional embroidery route, with her hand embroidered blue bullion work chair designs. The punchy colours of the bullion stands out wonderfully against the suiting fabrics.

palmina

If you would like to get in contact with us about a project you are working on, please drop us an email, we would love to hear your ideas…

 

Hawthorne & Heaney on New Designers

Every June, Islington’s Business Design Centre plays host to some of the most exciting offerings this years graduates have to bring in the New Designers Exhibition Part 1. Hawthorne and Heaney  went down to see what it was all about this year and to bring you the most exciting pieces. With the show split into sections where each university champions their best students, there is plenty to see.

Nottingham Trent University exhibited some work from students such as Hannah Croft of Muuna. Her work has a beautiful crystalline quality as she blurs the line between minerals and fabric fusing them together. She combines practises from her experience as an embroidery and woven designer to create these visually intriguing pieces.

Muuna crystals Muuna orange Muuna blue

There was also work by Josey Mendez who works predominately with CAD embroidery and fabric manipulation to create this collection which she exhibited called ‘Movement of Nature’ which is inspired by the contrast of shorelines.

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Rosamund Hanny has produced a very beautiful collection of samples which include pages technique, CAD and ombre tassels to create these elegant installations which traverse art, textile design and fashion. Featured were pieces from her award winning collection ‘Wings and Feathers’ as well as a piece from her anticipated new collection  ‘Fins and Scales’. Inspired by the natural world, Hanny’s work is underpinned by a strong ethical design philosophy. Incorporating environmentally conscious processes such as exhaust dyeing, along with up-cycled materials including vintage wedding dress silks

‘Wings and Feathers is a textile art installation inspired by the vibrancy and fragility of nature. The work synchronises traditional and contemporary techniques to create overworked and innovative textile pieces, incorporating digital and hand embroidery, sublimation printing and exhaust dyeing.’

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rosamund hanny blue rosamund hanny collection

Another designer who stood out from the One Year On section was Alice Wheatley of ‘This is Alice’ . Her glass wear pieces have an other worldly quality with their body parts captured in the glass which is both intriguing and unsettling.

‘This is a concept installation, a reflection of entrapment. This is indiscriminate and indifferent, a fateful episode. This is suppressed and secreted, an estrangement from being. This is an existence, a life with consequences. This is a restriction and confinement, a history of forgotten and forsaken people. This is somebody else’s life, a moment, take a look. This is Alice.’

AliceWheatleyfeet AliceWheatley mouth AliceWheatley eyeThe new designers exhibition is only on for a few days each year so make sure you watch out for the window of opportunity to see the collection while it is on. The best of luck to all the new graduates which showed and well done! We are already looking forward to next year…

London Fashion and H&H

Hawthorne & Heaney always watch the emergence of new fashion graduates with great interest and feel its very important to encourage young designers in order to propel fashion forwards.  Over the last week there has been plenty of new talent coming through and this talent has been displaying a range of extremely innovative embroidery.   Starting with CSM and RCA and working into graduate fashion week there has been plenty of techniques on display.

Olga Kuryschuk displayed a delicate silver and white collection, with lace applique and a swathe of crystals strewn across the garments in a nonchalant manner.

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Amie Robertson and Richard Quinn opted for bolder, structural applications of large shaped sequins or floral pieces for a more 3D effect.

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While Flora Cadzow incorporated fine machine embroidery into her sheer fabrics.

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London is always such a haven for young designers because it is so open to embracing the experimental, innovative and the quirky. Therefore finding new and exciting ways to present embroidery and reinvent old techniques in fashion gives is very exciting and challenging. In the past, we have had great fun working with emerging designers, like these graduate may go on to be.

We work with the designer right through from the initial idea, translating drawings into embroidery during the sampling process, development, placement and finally the realised products in production. In collections past we have worked with designers such as Isa Arfen, Reem Juan, Sibling, and Claire Barrow just to name a few.

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Free Falling Crystal and Bead Tassels from Isa Arfen

Reem Juan Body

Delicate Silk shaded body suit from Reem Juan

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Islamic Inspired floral goldwork cap from Sibling

claire barrow paint dress

Fully couture beaded dress from Claire Barrow

Being a London based studio, we provide a more inclusive approach to embroidery for fashion as well as being able to modestly boast 15 collective years of industry experience.   If you have an idea about some embroidery that you would like to have done, but don’t have the capacity to make it happen, contact us and we can see what we can do to make it a reality. For more examples of fashion embroidery by Hawthorne & Heaney, have a browse of our pinterest board