Machine Embroidery Technician – Part time/Full Time
We are excited to be looking for a friendly outgoing person to join our small team in Central London. The position will mainly focus on machine embroidery design/production, but will also have the opportunity to expand and develop your skills in other areas. There is also the opportunity to expand this into a full time position. The role will involve:
Along side our own London Craft Week Classes, Hawthorne & Heaney also have some embroidery on display in the shape of a navy smoking jacket we embroidered for Anderson & Sheppard. They are part of a collaboration with Jeremy King OBE of the Beaumont Hotel London to create a capsule collection inspired by the hotel:
‘Each tailor has produced an outfit for Jimmy Beaumont, a fictional character invented by Jeremy to inform the interior design of the 1926 hotel building. The collection includes a tuxedo, a three piece suit and night-wear, highlighting the skill of the tailors alongside their ability to respond to their client’s character. Each piece of Jimmy Beaumont’s wardrobe is displayed in the tailors windows along Savile Row. ‘ (London Craft Week)
Here are some of the photos of the jacket in the various stages of production, whilst the pieces were still flat they were provided to us to create the frogging on the front and motifs on the sleeves which are inspired by the symbols on playing cards:
All above images from @jennie_mcwalter
And here is the finished jacket, if you’d like to see this piece and others from the collection, they are all on display in their prospective shops down Savile Row now until 7th May.
Image above by @guy.hills and video courtsey of Anderson & Sheppard.
In the studio we like to continue to challenge ourselves and push to create something new with our skills, so at the end of last year, we set ourselves a bit of a challenge to create a dress to wear to the BTBA Festival Dinner in February.
Like with all create processes, it started with some sketching and sampling to decide what style we were going to go for.
We look at both hand embroidery and machine embroidery options, and given the time scale, decided it was best to go for a machine embroidery design which combined a few of our favourite techniques.Using an exisitng pattern, we tweeted the patternt to better fit the design and the body on which it would fit by toiling with the help of our intern Jessica.
Once we were happy with the pattern, we construced the skirt and began applying the embroidery to the flat skirt and top panels.
Along side the main production we also produced some technical samples to deal and test some of the more tricky aspect of this piece, for example, doing a test to insert a sip to see how close to the embroidery we could go because of the stifness of the backing supporting the fabric and the height of the padding under the stitches.
Once all the embroidery was finished, it all went back to Jessica to make it up.
Stop by our blog again soon to see the finished piece…
Design/Embroidery by Natasha Searls-Punter and Pattern Cutting/Toiling by Jessica Eykel at the Hawthorne & Heaney Studio
For quite some time now, we have been playing around with the idea of developing a machine embroidery that would communicate some similar ideas to traditional military style goldwork but in a crisper, more modern way. In true Hawthorne & Heaney style, we didnt just want to go in for a little sample that we could get to work on a small scale, but a big piece that would really hit you in the face, so we settled on a version of the Privy Councillors Coatie.
We wanted the piece to not only have a rich gold look of the original piece , but also the different heights to the stitching and surface details that come with applying bullion individually.
The colours are worked in layers, adding layers of padding between colours to create light relief.
Following these processes, the machine then goes back into to add additional details :
Once all of that is done, we give it a little tidy up and it is complete. To give you a sense of scale this piece is 45 cm high which would be the left hand side of a mens jacket. It is really exciting for us to see a large scale outcome for this technique which has defiantely sparked some subsequent ideas, so stay tuned to see what we do next…
The New Suicide Squad Movie has been long awaited, but last night was the European Premier in London’s Leicester Square. Hawthorne & Heaney were delighted to be asked to do the embroidery work for an outfit for the ladies of the cast for one of their looks. Chaos Fashion designed and produced these beautiful silk satin tracksuits for Cara Delevingne and Margot Robbie wear to the after party.
Each tracksuit was personalised with the girls names on the front in gold against the suit’s navy.
The back sported, the films ‘SKWAD’ and ‘X’.
The machine embroidery featured a slight fade within the fill which helps to give it it’s shadowed effect.
Every June, Islington’s Business Design Centre plays host to some of the most exciting offerings this years graduates have to bring in the New Designers Exhibition Part 1. Hawthorne and Heaney went down to see what it was all about this year and to bring you the most exciting pieces. With the show split into sections where each university champions their best students, there is plenty to see.
Nottingham Trent University exhibited some work from students such as Hannah Croft of Muuna. Her work has a beautiful crystalline quality as she blurs the line between minerals and fabric fusing them together. She combines practises from her experience as an embroidery and woven designer to create these visually intriguing pieces.
There was also work by Josey Mendez who works predominately with CAD embroidery and fabric manipulation to create this collection which she exhibited called ‘Movement of Nature’ which is inspired by the contrast of shorelines.
Rosamund Hanny has produced a very beautiful collection of samples which include pages technique, CAD and ombre tassels to create these elegant installations which traverse art, textile design and fashion. Featured were pieces from her award winning collection ‘Wings and Feathers’ as well as a piece from her anticipated new collection ‘Fins and Scales’. Inspired by the natural world, Hanny’s work is underpinned by a strong ethical design philosophy. Incorporating environmentally conscious processes such as exhaust dyeing, along with up-cycled materials including vintage wedding dress silks
‘Wings and Feathers is a textile art installation inspired by the vibrancy and fragility of nature. The work synchronises traditional and contemporary techniques to create overworked and innovative textile pieces, incorporating digital and hand embroidery, sublimation printing and exhaust dyeing.’
Another designer who stood out from the One Year On section was Alice Wheatley of ‘This is Alice’ . Her glass wear pieces have an other worldly quality with their body parts captured in the glass which is both intriguing and unsettling.
‘This is a concept installation, a reflection of entrapment. This is indiscriminate and indifferent, a fateful episode. This is suppressed and secreted, an estrangement from being. This is an existence, a life with consequences. This is a restriction and confinement, a history of forgotten and forsaken people. This is somebody else’s life, a moment, take a look. This is Alice.’
The new designers exhibition is only on for a few days each year so make sure you watch out for the window of opportunity to see the collection while it is on. The best of luck to all the new graduates which showed and well done! We are already looking forward to next year…
New York Designer Alexander Wang has been encorporating embroidered statements into his most recent denim collection so for one weekend only, Hawthorne & Heaney has been providing the embroidery so customers can have their items personalised in the flagship. This took place last month where the Hawthorne & Heaney team rocked up to Alexander Wang’s London flagship with our machine.
All the pieces from the collection had quite provocative slogans encorportaed into them, so customers had a choice of some that had already been featured in the collection, or to modify to their own taste. The below images are from the collection from Alexander Wang Instagram:
With London Fashion Week well and truely underway, we thought we would share with you a little piece of Hawthorne & Heaney embroidery that made its way onto the catwalk. We worked with the Brighton based designer Ong Oaj Pairam on his AW2016 collection to produce a heavily encrusted, lace and crystal bodice.
It was a pretty quick turn around so we used all the tools at our disposal when we were developing the techniqies. The collection has a dark fairytale/ Victorian lost love theme which we worked into the designs. Using our CAD embroidery machine we developed lace like flower and leaf designs to build up a heavy base and compliment the sheen of the duchess satin on which they would be placed.
Along side this we experiemented with a variety of different sequin techniques for creating floral effects
Once this was all decided on then all there was left to do was to get stitching
We were really pleased with the effect, it felt very heavy to hold but wonderfully textured. When teamed with the jaquard trousers and sheer shirt from the rest of Pairam’s collection it really comes to life.
We hope you enjoy looking at this piece as much as we enjoyed working on it. Check in again with us to see what else we have been working on recently…
If you would like to see more from Ong Oaj Pairam, please visit his website