Hawthorne & Heaney Visits Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion

When a major fashion exhibtion comes to London, we love to go and see what it is all about and the Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion Exhibition currently on at the Victoria and Albert Museum does not disappoint. Based in the fashion and textiles section of the museum, the exhibition goes through from the beginnings of Balenciaga as a brand, through to current designers that Balenciaga has influenced.

Starting downstairs, most of the historical garments and accessories are displayed with accompanying notes and toiles. There are a few pieces which have a video animation next to them of how the pattern goes together to make the garment function which are very informative and really demonstrate the complexity of the designs:

#balenciaga @vamuseum #patterncutting

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This accompanies the actual garment which it explains as well as a calico toile of the garment. A few pieces from the collection have been x-rayed as can be seen in the back of the next video which shows the many layers that go into a piece like this and the hidden support within some of the ‘simpler’ looking gowns.

@vamuseum #balenciaga #fashion #london

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X-ray photograph of silk taffeta evening dress by Cristóbal Balenciaga, 1955, Paris, France. X-ray by Nick Veasey, 2016. © Nick Veasey

They have a section which is dedicated to the fabric choices and embroideries used in some of the historical Balenciaga pieces. These include a wonderfully rich example of silk shading on a gown with an impossibly tiny waist and a very decadent textured jacket. The base embroidery of the jacket is demonstrated by an embroiderer from Paris based embroiderers Lesage recreating the design. See below for a snippet of the tambour beading over long silk stitching.

Wild silk evening dress (detail), Cristóbal Balenciaga with embroidery by Lesage, 1960 – 2, Paris, France. Museum no. T.27-1974. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Going through the exhibition, the different approaches to each of the pieces are explained as Cristobal Balenciaga applied both tailoring and dressmaking techniques to his pieces. He was know for his surgical precision, often pictured in a lab coat measuring and remeasuring sections. A selection of traditional tailoring tools are displyed including shears, pressing ham, chalk shaving box and tracing wheel.

Cristóbal Balenciaga at work, 1968, Paris, France. Photograph by Henri Cartier-Bresson. © Henri Cartier-Bresson/Magnum PhotosMoving upstairs, the exhibition focuses more on Balenciagas lasting legacy and those he has inspired. Against the dombed ceiling, three videos of current designers such as Mollie Goddard and Gareth Pugh who speak about how Balenciaga has influenced them and their design work. A series of parallels are drawn between contemporary designs and historical Balenciaga pieces such as the below by Hussein Chalayan and Oscar De La Renta which are likened to textured coat and silk work dress previous mentioned.

This exhibition is a well rounded insight into the Balenciaga brand with lots of lovely couture examples and the technical specification to go with them which is interesting for those with and without exisiting fashion knowledge.  Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion will be running at the Victoria and Albert Museum‘s Fashion and Textiles Gallery Space (Room 40) until Sunday 18th February 2018 so if you have the opportunity to see it, it is worth the visit. Tickets cost £12.00 and some concessions are available.

All images and videos courtsey of Natasha Searls-Punter (@tashasearlspunter) unless otherwise stated.

Hawthorne & Heaney hosts Michele Carragher

Now that the dust has settled from the grand finale of Game of Thrones we are feeling a little bereft. It is a long time till Series 8 which is why we feel you lovely readers may want to see a little of what we got up to with the wonderful Michelle Carragher, premiere embroider to costume designer Michele Clapton.

Michele Carragher came to join us at London Embroidery School to put on a special class focussing on some of the many techniques she use for the incredible costumes she has had a hand in throughout the season.

Excitingly Michele created LES a brand new Cigil to be used in the class which included many materials we hadn’t used before and many of the techniques that we learned were new to us. The style was very organic which was something many of us our not used to being a combination of machine and monogram embroiderers.

Great mid day progress from the Bird Sigil Masterclass with Michele Carragher #handembroidery #embroideryclass #london

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It was such an enjoyable day which flew by. Some of our wonderful students have made progress since with @mammacubitt being furthest along !
For more info at all the classes at London Embroidery School follow this link to the site.

Hawthorne & Heaney does POP – UP Events

SPECIAL OFFERS for OCTOBER

 
HAWTHORNE & HEANEY can offer on site personalisation services with embroidery and embellishment.  This can include a wide range of customisation services and is a great way to engage your clients and influencers in a personal and memorable way.  
 
Our customer service staff are trained to provide a professional service that will enhance your brand and encourage renewed interest and brand loyalty with your existing customers.  It is also a wonderful opportunity for engaging social media content for yourselves and your key influencers.
 
We have a huge range of personalisation services to offer and can offer a consultation service to help you decide which best will fit your brand story and event.
 
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Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane Fantasy

Fashion week is here! We have had the absolute pleasure of working with the one the only Joshua Kane for his Spring Summer 2018 Collection ‘Fantasy’. It is always a delight to see our work come to life on the catwalk, and out there for the world to see!

A close up to show the 3D effect of the tailor,

We are loving the attention to detail, The Tailor on the shoes

 

 

 

 

My personal favourite is this incredible leather jacket! Raised embroidered sleeves. This really is a dream!

It is safe to say that we are living the fantasy here at Hawthorne and Heaney

 

Check out the whole collection here Follow Joshua Kane on Instagram, we cannot wait to see what he comes up with next season!

 

Hawthorne & Heaney for Smythson’s London Craft Week Event

In addition to our own classes and exhibiting work at Anderson and Sheppard, we also were demonstrating goldwork at Smythson’s LCW event. They had a series of craftspeople set up in store to show some of the process that their items go through.

At the front of the store, Meg was positioned, drafting and embroidering the Smythson’s ‘S’ into a bespoke badge. This piece will have been drafted, raised, appliqued and embroidered with cutwork bullion.

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On another counter, one of their book binders was stationed, explianing the properties of the binding process that thie products go through, the importance of using 2 types of glue for each piece and why they have maintained their hand processes over using machines. Finally they had another lady applying the tissue linings into their envelopes which also all done by hand.

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They also had a lady doing freehand calligraphy, where you could write down your name for her and she would draw it out on a card for you to take home.

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Wonderful calligraphy writing at Smythson as part of London Craft Week #lcw2017 #calligraphy #craft @atmorgan

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There were so many great ways to get involved with Craft Week this year, we cant wait to see what they will have on next year as it gets bigger and bigger each year!

 

Hawthorne & Heaney for Anderson & Sheppard’s London Craft Week Beaumont Collection Collaboration

Along side our own London Craft Week Classes, Hawthorne & Heaney also have some embroidery on display in the shape of a navy smoking jacket we embroidered for Anderson & Sheppard. They are part of a collaboration with Jeremy King OBE of the Beaumont Hotel London to create a capsule collection inspired by the hotel:

‘Each tailor has produced an outfit for Jimmy Beaumont, a fictional character invented by Jeremy to inform the interior design of the 1926 hotel building. The collection includes a tuxedo, a three piece suit and night-wear, highlighting the skill of the tailors alongside their ability to respond to their client’s character. Each piece of Jimmy Beaumont’s wardrobe is displayed in the tailors windows along Savile Row. ‘ (London Craft Week)

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Here are some of the photos of the jacket in the various stages of production, whilst the pieces were still flat they were provided to us to create the frogging on the front and motifs on the sleeves which are inspired by the symbols on playing cards:

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All above images from @jennie_mcwalter   

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And here is the finished jacket, if you’d like to see this piece and others from the collection, they are all on display in their prospective shops down Savile Row now until 7th May.

Image above by @guy.hills and video courtsey of Anderson & Sheppard.

Hawthorne & Heaney chats with Riddle Magazine

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Hand embrodierer extraordinaire Megumi Endo working on a monogrammed handkerchief

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A few weeks back, we took some time out to chat to Rupert Watkins of Riddle Magazine and friend of Hawthorne & Heaney. We were delighted when he said he wanted to do an article on us for Riddle and so after lots of conversation and a little time with their photographer Andy Barnham, the article is ready to be shared with you.

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Close up detail of raised machine embrodiery

The article covers a little of the history of how Hawthorne & Heaney came to be as well as the sort of pieces we work on. Here are a few of the pictures from the article to give you a taste, follow the link to read the article in its entirety.

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Hawthorne & Heaney’s Director, Claire Barret at her drawing desk

Hawthorne & Heaney for Kent and Curwen A/W 2017

It’s exciting to announce that Hawthorne & Heaney have worked with Kent and Curwen to produce beautiful embroidered badges for their new collection.

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Kent & Curwen, was first established in 1926, ‘two years after Eric Kent and Dorothy Curwen first crossed paths on Savile Row’. The company was described as a sports related gentlemen’s fashion brand that first began as a manufacturer of military, club, and college repp ties. In 1972, K&C had a defining moment when they produced kits for both England and Australia in the Ashes. The relationship with The England team lasted for well over ’20 years, supplying knits and caps well into the Nineties’.

cricket team

As of recent, David Beckham has joined Kent and Curwen in a partnership, acting as a brand ambassador and to us he is the perfect fit – ‘a true gentleman, celebrated for his fashion style and the British sports hero of his generation’.

Working with creative director Daniel Kearns, they have both created a collection ‘of everything a man would want to wear right now’. From ‘sun-faded rugby shirts, classic outerwear to English heritage knits.’ Most of these products bears a badge that reflects the heritage of Kent & Curwen – the Three Lions and the English Rose. These embroidered badges are both long held symbols of the brand and we at Hawthorne & Heaney are delighted at the way they turned out!

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Kent & Curwen launched this collection as part of London Fashion Week Mens and in an interview with WWD, Kearns expressed that this collection aims to appeal to a new British generation. The collection is now on selling on the Kent & Curwen’s website and Mr Porter so check it out to get your hands on it.

Kent and Curwen are seriously embarking on a new chapter in their rich history and we are so excited to be part of that.

Find out a bit more about the K&C here:

References:

WGSN – https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/david-beckham-to-help-design-kent-curwens-autumnwinter-2016-collection/#

Kent and Curwen official website – https://www.kentandcurwen.com/heritage/

GQ – http://www.gq.com/story/david-beckhams-kent-curwen-new-menswear-line

By Hasina

 

 

 

 

Hawthorne & Heaney for Joshua Kane A/W 2017

JOSH KANE aw17 ticket

On Friday night, Hawthorne & Heaney were a few of the audience members to watch the the fashion show of Joshua Kane’s A/W 2017 collection. Held at the London Palladium, it was a grand affair with 2250 people eagerly watching as Kane wanted to be able to share the experience with his fans as well as the high fashion crowd. Therefore, tickets were available for anyone to buy, attend and enjoy.

Entitled, ‘Journey’ the brand did not disappoint with an amazing set of intricate lattice work depicting a early 20th century tube station, newly built and creating a social microcosm of it’s own as the classes mingle. On this we were introduced to the narative with a couple of models interacting briefly before the main body of the show got started.

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The shows itself was crisp, sharp and well polished as is only fitting for a Joshua Kane collection. Not only was this show unusual to be shared with the wider audience in this way, but was also Kane’s first show that was an equal split of mens and womenswear. The line up finished with the three looks which Hawthorne & Heaney produced embroidered pieces for, in the form of a horse head, with chess board, military and heraldic influences.

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Great to see some of my embroidery on the runway this evening @hawthorneheaney #joshuakanejourney #embroidery #lfw

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The show finished with a moving performance by the two models/dancers that we were introduced to at the start.

A beautiful presentation of tailoring from last nights fashion show #joshuakanejourney #ballet #suits

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As always it was lovely to be involved in an exciting project like this, particulally with such as beautiful outcome and was wonderful to see them on their debut in person. If you would like to seemore of the collection follow the link here. We are looking forward to what they produce for next season already!